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Routes in Fox Tower

Fox Trot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Head Fox T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Mike Head and company
Page Views: 1,014 total, 8/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Oct 15, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

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Some areas require a guide. Details


Upon walking up to Fox Tower, about 96% of climbers will be saying "what route goes up those really cool hueco-monkey-bars?" That would be this route. Start just below and left of the huecos at a cleft, climb up and right out of the cleft to a pretty high first bolt (30'), then just follow the bolts up to the anchor. Crux is like the last bolt and crack (bring a large stopper) where the big buckets you've been swinging from disappear and you have to edge your way up the finish. Really nice route!


Center-right of Fox Tower. Look for lotsa huecos.


7 bolts, bring a couple of large stoppers for the keyhole placement between the last bolt and the anchor. Two ropes required for the 165' rap.
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
After trying to back up the bolts here's what I found:
1. #4 steel went deep in the crack approaching bolt #1
2. tight, upward slotted, blue alien to back up #4 bolt
3. black (smallest) alien & steel nut all on two shoulder length slings between #6 and #7 (crux)
4. small to med wires, yellow alien, .75 Camalot pro the move to belay. Feb 7, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Nice climbing with a surprise finish at the end. The supplemental stopper certainly isn't required but was welcomed when I headed for the anchor. The route forces you to make the last move to hit the anchors. No low clipping alternative.

Good, clean, fun. Oct 17, 2007
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
This is like a slightly harder version of Malice in Bucketland. Great huecos and nice pulls. Put it on your list. Oct 16, 2007