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Routes in Fox Tower

Fox Trot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Head Fox T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Mike Head and company
Page Views: 356 total · 3/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Oct 15, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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6 Opinions

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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Climb up left of the cleft in the middle of the Fox Tower formation (left of hueco field that forms Fox Trot route), folling the crack initially and moving up past ten bolts to a two bolt anchor 150 feet up. Excellent route on pretty good edges with some thought-provoking moves between bolts.

Protection

10 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Bring two ropes for the 150' rappel. The guide suggests that some might want some misc. pro to supplement the bolts.

Location

Left of cleft/crack in the middle of the formation. Start in the crack, then move left out to first bolt about 25' up.

Photos

Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.10b/c
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.10b/c
I couldn't find any gear worth placing for back-up. Originally led on two bolts! (Rock & Ice #36) Feb 7, 2009
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10 R
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.10 R
This route was awesome IMO. Not sure where you might add any supplemental gear aside from the crack at the beginning. The first few moves present with an interesting stemming problem but all that is needed is a good spotter. After that there are HUGE holds to the first bolt. I could not decide if I liked this or Malice In Bucketland better, both were beautiful routes! This one felt a little more difficult, with smaller edges on it than that one though. Also the movement is less obvious, and the route is a bit more run out. Other than that, they are both really great routes for the grade! Apr 21, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10b/c R
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10b/c R
The line following the first 3 bolts is slick and leaves you thinking you may have bitten off more than you can chew. If you've been playing around on large features for a few days the thin edges this route has may be a surprise.

Hang in there and you'll be pleasantly rewarded with a fun and sustained route.

~Susan Oct 17, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10
Slick rock to start, sorta run out if 12ft between bolts is runout to you, and quasi relentless. Plenty of good moves all stacked up on top of each other make this fingery in places beast a classic. Warm up on the Fox Trot and then give this one a go. Supplemental pro? hmmm.... I don't even recall where you would want to place it. Oct 16, 2007

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