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Routes in Stirrup Rock - North Face

Adam's Rib T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Australian for Beer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack Kills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do Or Dike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eve's Serpent T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Freckle Face T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jugular Vein T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Toy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seebolt T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: (TR) Alan Nelson 1-1983. Lead: (right start) Jonny Woodward 1987. Lead: (original start) Alan Nelson 1989.
Page Views: 865 total, 7/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts off the left side of a boulder/ledge at the base of the wall, and climbs the nice face between "Jugular Vein" and "Do or Dike".
The first lead went straight up to the second bolt. Now it is led to the left.
A line of holds goes up excellent grey rock to a fairly new looking bolt. Move up and right to another bolt. Steep climbing up freckled rock passes two more bolts. The crux is after the last bolt.

There is a two bolt anchor on top.

There is a mystery bolt in the middle of three hairline dikes, down and left of the start.

Protection

Draws.

Photos

mhagny
  5.10d
mhagny  
  5.10d
All bolts are shiny and new now. I'd say the low crux -- just above the 1st bolt -- is probably only 10b. Then it's 5.8 - 5.9 for a ways, gradually becoming 10a again. Then the high crux is above the last bolt -- and definitely 10d - 11a. I went about 4 ft to the R of the bolt, but on TR another in my party succeeded in going about 4 ft L of this bolt. It's a choice between crimps and friction. Great fun -- do this route!! Dec 2, 2017
Richard Shore
  5.11a
Richard Shore  
  5.11a
One-move thin crux leads to long and steep 5.10 jug haul.

It's a little exposed getting to the anchors if TR-ing - I wouldn't recommend leading it on those rusty Leeper hangers. Jan 23, 2013