Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson & Mike Beck, December 1982
Page Views: 1,731 total · 11/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

68 Opinions

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This climbs the obvious left-slanting crack system on the left edge of the shady north face of Stirrup Rock. Work your way down into the "pit" at the base and climb off a boulder into the crack. Jugular Vein (5.8) climbs this route and then cuts right to join a crack/dike system. Rap off bolts to climbers left to descend.

This is another route that receives mention in the Winger's 60 Classics/Trad Guide to Joshua Tree.


Light rack. Optional 4" piece protects the flare halfway up.


Portland, OR
Obi   Portland, OR
So unmemorable that I am at a loss of words to describe it. Might be a little awkward for the fledgling 5.6 leader - move onto something else before trying this as a start to your climbing career. Nov 5, 2007
Amy R
Mission Viejo, CA
Amy R   Mission Viejo, CA
My husband and I just did our first trad climb here. It's a good route (save for the funky smell coming from the off width crack toward the middle) and no one was out there. Tip: If you're weird about mouse crap, steer clear of this route. I guess the mice like to hang out at the bottom of this route. Oct 30, 2008
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
All cleaned up by this winter's rains. No bird crap anywhere on the route.
Far from boring or awkward; this is one of the better 5.6 routes in the Park. Mar 12, 2010
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
I'd have to agree with the last poster - fun climb, clean rock, good pro. Feb 11, 2011
Worth doing for a beginner. All clean of poop when I was there March 2011. Mar 17, 2011
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   M.O.A.B.
Ok, but there is much better to be had in Joshua Tree. Gargoyle is one that comes to mind, and it's in the area. Sep 5, 2011
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Not a bad route by any means. It was pretty clean, at least I didn't notice much. Nice place to get away, wander around and get on random routes. Nov 19, 2012
Easy 5.6, good place to practice gear placements. Had fun. May 18, 2015