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Routes in (b) Metro Sector

Burly Boogie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Excuse Abuse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Graffiti Wisdom S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Indecision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Metro S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peepshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pioneer Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Punk's Not Dead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rendezvous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Simple Simon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Voyeurism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2003
Page Views: 2,353 total, 19/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Climb large, positive holds through bulging terrain to a distinct crux just past the 5th bolt as you traverse left above the lip of a small roof. Once past the crux the angle subsides for a bit and a combination of stemming and liebacking past blocky corners and flakes through progressively steeper terrain leads to another crux between the last bolt and the anchors.

Great climbing on this route which feels a lot like climbing at Owens River Gorge in the lower portion and a little like Tangerine Dream up high. Originally done with 8 bolts, which made it a bit more "heady" to lead, but now with the addition of two more bolts it's very well protected and a must do route for the grade.

Location

Located on the right side of the Metro Sector with Voyeurism (5.12a) to the right and Peepshow (5.10c) to the left.

Protection

10 bolts, open shuts

Photos

Dustin Stephens
  5.11
Dustin Stephens  
  5.11
hard for the grade, dirty Jan 14, 2017
John Ericson   USA
How are the anchors on this? I recall thinking that the open shuts had a little bit of life left on them when I last climbed it, which was probably over 1.5 years ago. Apr 13, 2016
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11a
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11a
Louie who was on the route extensively in 2013 reported no loose blocks (I asked him Aug '14), so the problem block has probably been taken dealt with, but, as always you should always take care - it is a quarry after all. Aug 13, 2014
Hank G
Flagstaff, AZ
Hank G   Flagstaff, AZ
Good place to hide from the sun after its crested the cliff top. But there's an air-conditioner sized rock about 5 feet below the anchors that is REALLY close to coming off.. I know its the quarry, but this thing looks like its one bird-turd away from careening onto someone's domepiece. Also, there is a hold that appears to be undercling-worthy flake about 3 feet below the aforementioned death-rock that is about to pop off. You've been warned. Mar 5, 2012
Roberto
La Jolla, CA
 
Roberto   La Jolla, CA
 
Ehh, there are MUCH better 11's at the crag. Redrum...Violator...Exfoliator...Double Whammy...Delirious..Epiphany Dec 4, 2009
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11a
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11a
The route does have more bolts than stated in the printed guide. I thought it was fairly safe all the way. Jul 13, 2008
veritus
redlands, ca
  5.10d
veritus   redlands, ca
  5.10d
someone needs to add three or four MORE bolts. Nov 26, 2007