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Routes in (b) Metro Sector

Burly Boogie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Excuse Abuse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Graffiti Wisdom S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Indecision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Metro S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peepshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pioneer Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Punk's Not Dead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rendezvous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Simple Simon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Voyeurism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 332 total · 4/month
Shared By: Steve Shiflett on Jun 21, 2011
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Climb up to a low roof which starts the cruxy section. The 12b/c crux is moving past the 4th bolt and clipping the 5th. The climbing eases until 2 bolts below the anchors where a last push of power and sequence is required.

Location

Route is right of Tagger and left of Burly Boogie

Protection

14 bolts to open shuts

Photos

- No Photos -
SCherry
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
SCherry   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Got on it for the first time yesterday. Was looking for a new 12c proj after finishing up "Hanging By a Thread" in just 3 tries.

This route is of excellent quality. If it was in the roof area it would be a classic and much cleaner. As is, its not loose but has a lot of dirt on it and the holds needed a good brushing.

The crux move is definitely harder than "Hanging By a Thread". There are probably more easy sections on this climb (its less sustained), but the climbing at the top is tenuous and a bit heady. Would not want to take a fall trying to make the moves to clip the anchor, as you'd fall out of the corner on an angle.

FYI - I noticed that the big jug at the top of the arete climbing, just above the last bolt was flexing a lot. On the lower-off, I pried it loose without much effort and trundled it. The climbing might be a little harder now since the good left foot you use to clip the anchors is gone...sorry. Dec 3, 2012