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Routes in Dragonlance Wall

Dragonlance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Guapo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fierce S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gorilla Dance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hammer and Anvil S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Nightmare T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Screaming Trees S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thermatology T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk Up S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Eric Odenthal, August 2001
Page Views: 70 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Long reaches between thin and crimpy edges to a difficult dyno at the top characterize this route which is somewhat contrived as you avoid an obvious flake (the largest hold on the face) at the top.

This route was an abandoned project that finally got some attention, and after a little work it's now one of the more difficult routes at The Coven. Interestingly enough the FA party originally rated this route 5.13b, but it was soon repeated and promptly downgraded to 5.12a! The guidebook split the difference by rating it 5.12c, but what it really needs is more ascents to solidify the rating.

Location

Right of Gorilla Dance and seperated from it by Dancing on A Broomstick (5.7 chimney) is this short, smooth face with a single difficult route.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

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