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Elevation: 7,560 ft 2,304 m
GPS: 34.27479, -116.98778
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 51,867 total · 207/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski
Warning Access Issue: Road Closure in Effect DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Hidden in the hills northwest of Fawnskin and sitting on a forested ridge is The Coven, a small collection of granite formations with sweeping vistas of Big Bear Lake, The San Gabriel Mountains and the surrounding forest.

There are over 60 routes established here, with most on clean, high-quality rock similar to that found at the nearby Holcomb Valley Pinnacles. Routes here tend to be on the shorter side but are highly enjoyable.

  • No camping is available at the crag but lots of possibilites exist up and down the road just a short distance in either direction.
  • Please check with the Forest Service before heading out to see what fire restrictions are in effect.

Getting There Suggest change

From the town of Fawnskin drive north on Rim of The World Drive (3N14) for 1.3 miles and then make a left onto Forest Road 2N13; note that the pavement ends approximately 0.5 miles from town and turns into a graded but somewhat washboarded dirt road.

Continue west on 2N13 for roughly 2.0 miles until meeting the juncture of 2N13c, which leads to the Butler Peak Fire Lookout, and then continue another short distance (0.15 miles or so) to an intersection with 2N68 and make a right (heading slightly uphill). Continue along 2N68 for 0.2 miles to reach a parking area located at a hairpin turn in the road; the parking area has room for about 5-6 vehicles max.

The trail to The Coven leads north from the apex of the hairpin turn in the road and crests a small rise before the crag comes into view. From the viewpoint the trail heads downhill, crosses a seasonal stream and then switchbacks back uphill to it The Coven at the base of the Dragonlance Wall.

  • Plan on about 10 minutes for the approach from the parking area.

61 Total Climbs

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Location: The Coven Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Coven

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
● The Altar
Sport, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
● Snape
Sport, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
● Dragon Breath
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
● Bat Wings and Blood
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● Goblin Roof
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
● Witches' Brew
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● In Memory of Elizabeth Reed
Sport, Alpine
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
● The Sceptre
Sport, Alpine
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
● Thermatology
Trad, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
● Waffle House
Sport, Alpine
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
● Screaming Trees
Sport, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● The Altar Dragon Breath Wall
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, Alpine
● Snape Voodoo Wall
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, Alpine
● Dragon Breath Dragon Breath Wall
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, Alpine
● Bat Wings and Blood Voodoo Wall
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
● Goblin Roof Voodoo Wall
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
● Witches' Brew Voodoo Wall
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
● In Memory of Elizabeth Reed Lost Souls Slab
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
● The Sceptre Voodoo Wall
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
● Thermatology Dragonlance Wall > Dragonlance Wall - Ri…
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
● Waffle House Dragon Breath Wall
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine
● Screaming Trees Dragonlance Wall > Dragonlance Wall - Le…
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in The Coven »

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