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Routes in Dragonlance Wall

Dragonlance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Guapo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fierce S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gorilla Dance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hammer and Anvil S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Nightmare T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Screaming Trees S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thermatology T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk Up S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Brad Singer & John Cardmon, August 2001
Page Views: 59 total, 0/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located 15' right of Dragonlance and actually starts on a narrow north-facing wall next to a small pine tree.

Clip a pointless bolt, boulder out the crux, and then clip a second bolt (looking at a grounder) before mantling onto a ledge. Clip another bolt from the ledge and then pull interesting moves (looking at a ledge fall - watch those ankles) onto a vertical headwall past one more bolt and anchors on a ledge.

This is actually a fun route, but the poor bolting detracts from the overall experience; despite that it's still worth a go - just don't fall at the wrong spot!

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

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Colin Schour
Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Colin Schour   Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Bolting is strange. But makes for a fun, heady lead! Apr 17, 2011