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Routes in Dragonlance Wall

Dragonlance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
El Guapo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fierce S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gorilla Dance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hammer and Anvil S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Nightmare T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Screaming Trees S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thermatology T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk Up S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dean Goolsby et al
Page Views: 67 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the 1st bolted route from the left and starts in an obvious wide crack (5.8) on the left.

Start up the crack and the break right onto the face making some tricky moves (crux) just before reaching the 2nd bolt (a fall from here will likely result in a grounder, so have an attentive belayer). Once past that bit of excitement continue up featured face to a ledge with anchors.

The climbing on this is decent but unfortunately the route is marred by the poor bolting at the crux which makes this a poor choice for leaders breaking into the grade.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor w/hangers only

Photos

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Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
As of July '16 the anchor was two bolts with hangers only - no chains. It's easy to continue up and right to the Gorilla Dance anchor, which is equipped for rappelling. Jul 3, 2016