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Early Access
Routes in The Garden
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B Boys, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Before The Deluge S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Border Crossing T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crackdown T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dutch Treat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fine Fir T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Just Do It T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Showtime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smooth Operator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Storm Warning TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.0043, -105.4063 |
| FA: | Ron Olsen, Bruno Haché, and Nickie Kelly, 7/26/07 |
| Page Views: | 6,412 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Sep 19, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed.
Details
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Description
Showtime climbs the left side of the prominent pinnacle on the north face of Tonnere Tower. It is a great pitch, with face, cracks and exposed arete climbing on solid rock. Excellent position, exposure, and a treat for the tourists at Boulder Falls. Don't miss this pitch on your visit to The Garden!
P1: Start by climbing Fine Fir, Before The Deluge, or Crackdown to their common anchor, on a pedestal about 65' up.
P2: (Showtime): Start up the gully right of the anchor, place a green Camalot, and move right onto the wall. Climb up to a bulge, clip a bolt, and climb up and right onto the arete. Climb hand cracks to an alcove.
From here, the best climbing line stays to the left as much as possible. Other variations can be done more to the right.
Step left and climb a crux hand crack (8+) to an intermediate 2-bolt rap anchor at 60'. The hand crack can be bypassed by climbing the wide slot to the right. Clip the anchor, but do not stop here to belay. Instead, continue up to a stance. Step left and climb a hand crack onto the arete. (You could also climb wide cracks to the right, but the hand crack is more fun). Continue up the arete to to the top of the pinnacle and a two-bolt anchor. 5.8+, 125'.
Wave at the tourists at Boulder Falls who were entertained by your ascent!
Descent: Rappel 95' down to the anchor on The B Boys, then rappel 100' down to a gully above the start of Local Hero. Do an easy 20' downclimb to the bottom of the gully. Take a path to the left to get back to The Garden.
You can also rappel the route in 3 rappels, using the intermediate anchor halfway up the second pitch.
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