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Routes in The Pipeline

Angry Inch, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chia Pet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crap-O S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescent Moon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dynobone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ethan Screams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Freshly Squeezed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Boy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honey Bucket S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Laying Pipe S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lip Venom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Liquid Zipper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neptune Cocktail S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pipeline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Plumbers Crack S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Poop Chute S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Predator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sliding Down A Million Years S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Waterworks S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jared Nielson
Page Views: 8,172 total · 61/month
Shared By: mattjbudd on Sep 17, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This is a very classic climb. Very steep and fun!! The .11c rating comes from the first 10 feet of the climb. Then after that, nothing is harder than a .11a.

Location

Second route from the left as you enter the pipeline.

Protection

Bolts to 2 chains
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.11a
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.11a
This is way steep but with huge holds. Climb it like an ape. I believe the name of this climb is The Angry Inch. It is the second climb from left. The climb to the left of it is 11d. Nov 9, 2007
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
  5.11a
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
  5.11a
Feels like 11a to me Nov 9, 2007
Nicholas Yaskoff
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Nicholas Yaskoff   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
I was there with a friend who knew the guy who bolted the route. As mentioned previously the name of this route is "The Angry Inch" and I believe it originally had a rating of 11c. Great climb with a terrific sequence of long reachy moves. Sep 22, 2008
buckeeb Hart  
 
Glad I onsighted this while it was still an 11c- Very fun route. Worth doing.

Hey Kip long time no see! Oct 13, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
  • This is the second route from the left in the Pipeline.
  • Throught the swath of chalk on the grading cobble it still seems as though local concensus is 11c as far as we were able to tell.
  • 60 feet is quite generous for the length of the route, this rig is no longer than about 40 feet.

Really fun steep climbing on big, positive but greasy cobbles. Probably easier the faster you move or the better you know the route. On this route probably half or more of the holds that you grab are individual cobbles which is rare. Not so many pockets or pebbly cobble holds as on other routes. Jul 25, 2009
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
 
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
 
FA: Jared Nielson Sep 4, 2009
Tara Hansen  
 
I fell in love with this route! Super fun to work and figure out. The beginning moves are the crux. At the last bolt there's a well hidden hand, but if you cant find it just skip the clip and go for the chains! Apr 21, 2014
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.11a/b
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
  5.11a/b
Easily one of my favorite 11's in Maple.
Skip the last bolt since it's RIGHT UNDERNEATH(less than 20in away) from the chains.

The hidden right hand at the top is sooooo bomber! Apr 25, 2015
Tom Gnyra

  5.11a/b
Tom Gnyra    
  5.11a/b
compare this to excavation at the minimum and you don't really have a comparison on quality and grade. I didn't really like many lines at Pipeline and this may be the 'best' one.

Both excavation and angry inch are "classic 11c" climbs but the minimum is good climbing and this climb seems to be like you did a crux and clip the chains as it's over in a minute. I agree with 60 ft being generous and it being about 45 ft. Otherwise you have a really tall and somewhat consistant V0/V1. If you can overhang climb 10d you should be able to finish this short thing. Aug 15, 2015
Ice4life
US
 
Ice4life   US
 
The pump near the top out was real, at least for me... Holds are all there, big huge jugs and good pockets. People say to skip the last bolt and push to anchor since its right there, but I certainly was glad I clipped that last bolt because I was pumped by the end and barely clipped the mashy hook anchors at the top. Could be because I'm 235lbs and climbed a lot before I did this end of day route though... Nov 8, 2016

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