Type: Trad, 650 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Don Whillans, R Downes, 30th August 1956
Page Views: 1,768 total · 13/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Aug 29, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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The start of this route is easily recognized, as it ascends the steep central groove of the buttress.

1. Climb up the short wall on the left of the groove, until possible to move right and up to ledges.

2. Climb up the corner above to below an overhung recess.

3. Traverse left then back right and on up to a belay.

4. Move into the corner and up. Trend left up the wall to the arete and on up to a belay.

5. Continue on up easy angles grooves.

6. Climb up to an overhang and then move left. Continue leftwards and then make a step up to a slab which again is traverse leftwards. Belay directly below the overhangs.

7. Traverse right of the belay for 20ft and then up to a straightforward groove, which is followed to easier ground.


Start below the overlapping central groove.


Trad Gear


Martin Hind  
Have soloed this and it is generally regarded as classic HVS which compares with 5.9
Occassionally wet in the corner and at the second crux high up. If lightly wet can be bridged avoiding the wet holds in the corner. Sep 23, 2008
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
At the end of Pitch 5, be sure to move left onto a flat, grassy spot on the Route II Direct line, below the overhangs. Makes it much easier to belay for Pitch 6.

Also, this line takes a day or two to dry out after rain as we found out...P2 corner was very wet. Sep 10, 2013
Agree that this is 5.9 although an absolute classic at the grade. Aug 7, 2017