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Routes in Clifty

Interpretation of Creation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ken Ewing Memorial Railroad S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sandbagger Boulder T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scottish Wanna Be Gully T WI3
Thanksgiving Rock Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thanksgiving Rock Right (Ian D. Memorial Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Way Before After You Get Home S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yunctured By A Pucca S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 101 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

P1: Go up a left-trending gully system to a loose block, then move up and leftward under a small roof. Continue up the shallow dihedral above to a large ledge, (or, the featured face just to the left of the dihedral). From this ledge, either (a): continue straight up the next 20' of climbing still in the same pitch, and then belay in a grassy area with some dead trees below the steep 5.8 face with the old bolts and pins. Alternatively, from the large ledge, (b): traverse right and go up a 3rd/4th class gully to the same stance below the 5.8 face, 100'.

P2: Step first up and right, then move back left, to the 30' vertical face which has 2 fixed pins for pro and 3 hangerless 1/4" bolts (bring hangers or use wired stoppers on these). You can supplement the ancient pins with gear. Belay at a large block. This puts you at the top of the buttress.

Scramble down a 3rd class slot to the left, or rappel the main face.

Location

This climb, the leftmost documented route on Thanksgiving Rock, begins 60' uphill and left of the toe of the Thanksgiving Rock buttress, on the first place on the N side of the formation that looks worth climbing. Identify an obvious leaning diagonal crack to cue in on the start.

Descent: downclimb 3rd class down a sloping slot to the N of the buttress. There is also a new rappel route down the center of the buttress. See this page for details.

Protection

3 hangerless 1/4" bolts and 2 pins are fixed on the 2nd pitch.

Rack: A small rack up to a #2 camalot should be enough.

Photos

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Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8 PG13
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.8 PG13
The line with the stripped bolts and pitons is on the left side of the face on pitch 2; it is hard to see these from the ledge. The route felt like solid 5.8, and is made no easier by the spooky protection. Aug 27, 2008

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