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Thanksgiving Rock Right (Ian D. Memorial Route)
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1.9 from 9
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Scottish Wanna Be Gully T WI3 |
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Thanksgiving Rock Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thanksgiving Rock Right (Ian D. Memorial Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Yunctured By A Pucca S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,017 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Minesh Bacrania on Aug 12, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: May 7, 2022 - Los Alamos County Stage 3 (Full Closure) Fire Restrictions
Details
Effective May 7, 2022, Los Alamos County has issued a Stage 3 Fire Restriction order until further notice. This means all recreation, including climbing, on county land (all crags in White Rock and much of the Los Alamos area crags) is prohibited until the order is rescinded. See p1cdn4static.civiclive.com/… for more details.
Effective 8:00am, May 19th, 2022, the Santa Fe National Forest has issued a stage 3 (full closure) fire restriction order for the entire Santa Fe national forest. The order can be found at fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
The order is effective until December 31, 2022 or until rescinded earlier. Before you climb in any of the Santa Fe areas, you are encouraged to verify the land management status of the particular area to ensure it is not within the closure order area.
The MountainProject forum thread at mountainproject.com/forum/t… does a good job of detailing what is closed and what is open in the state of New Mexico.
Effective 8:00am, May 19th, 2022, the Santa Fe National Forest has issued a stage 3 (full closure) fire restriction order for the entire Santa Fe national forest. The order can be found at fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
The order is effective until December 31, 2022 or until rescinded earlier. Before you climb in any of the Santa Fe areas, you are encouraged to verify the land management status of the particular area to ensure it is not within the closure order area.
The MountainProject forum thread at mountainproject.com/forum/t… does a good job of detailing what is closed and what is open in the state of New Mexico.
Description
Start at the very toe of the buttress.
P1. Ascend mossy slabs to a large ledge with a (dead) tree, 4th class, 50'.
P2. Step up and left from this tree, and climb a small overhang and continue upwards and left on the large slab. You'll need to keep a close eye out for pro on this slab, or else be cool with running it out. Belay at the large ledge at the top of the slab, 5.6 unobvious pro, 60'. The first 2 pitches can be linked with a 50m rope, if you keep the rope to the LEFT of the tree so it doesn't drag.
P3. Move up and right off the belay with a large hueco for a hold. Continue up the steeper wall above (clipping the fixed ring piton, and adding your own gear if you like), negotiate an airy mantle move (crux), and move up and slightly left then head up to the next good ledge to belay, 5.7, 60'. If you look carefully, you might see the tiny rusty memorial to Ian D(?) on this ledge.
P4. A really short pitch is needed to get to easiest descent; step right around the next cliffband above you to reach the ridge top and easy terrain, 5.1.
Walk-Off Descent: Navigate the ridge until you find a place on the N side that looks safe enough to downclimb. If you keep going, the gullies get easier, but the time required is longer. A longer but even easier descent would be the broad S side of the hill.
Rappel Descent: There are bolted belays at the top of p2, p3, and p4, and it is possible to rap the route with 1 60m rope (with the final rappel coming up 8' short of the ground).
P1. Ascend mossy slabs to a large ledge with a (dead) tree, 4th class, 50'.
P2. Step up and left from this tree, and climb a small overhang and continue upwards and left on the large slab. You'll need to keep a close eye out for pro on this slab, or else be cool with running it out. Belay at the large ledge at the top of the slab, 5.6 unobvious pro, 60'. The first 2 pitches can be linked with a 50m rope, if you keep the rope to the LEFT of the tree so it doesn't drag.
P3. Move up and right off the belay with a large hueco for a hold. Continue up the steeper wall above (clipping the fixed ring piton, and adding your own gear if you like), negotiate an airy mantle move (crux), and move up and slightly left then head up to the next good ledge to belay, 5.7, 60'. If you look carefully, you might see the tiny rusty memorial to Ian D(?) on this ledge.
P4. A really short pitch is needed to get to easiest descent; step right around the next cliffband above you to reach the ridge top and easy terrain, 5.1.
Walk-Off Descent: Navigate the ridge until you find a place on the N side that looks safe enough to downclimb. If you keep going, the gullies get easier, but the time required is longer. A longer but even easier descent would be the broad S side of the hill.
Rappel Descent: There are bolted belays at the top of p2, p3, and p4, and it is possible to rap the route with 1 60m rope (with the final rappel coming up 8' short of the ground).
Location
Hike the Mitchell Trail to the giant green water tank. You will cross a dirt road and the Perimeter Trail, but will reach the water tank after <10 minutes, if you stay on the Mitchell Trail. Thanksgiving Rock is the largest buttress just ahead and right of the closest point on the trail to the water tank. Begin bushwacking to the base just after crossing the first dry streambed after the water tank.
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