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Routes in (c) The North Buttress

Hubris T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Lip Up Fatty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lip Up Fatty, Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
North Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stroll Around the Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tank Mechanic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Uneventful, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: Christrian Burrell and Brian Gonzalez
Page Views: 1,107 total, 9/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Aug 11, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starts on the bottom left edge of the N. Buttress. look for a "wing" shaped flake with a nice crack running through the middle of it. Work your way up more or less in a direct line up to a nice obvious corner with three roofs. After this pitch work up and right to the right of two obvious long cracks. You know you are in the right crack if you have to pass a crazy flake jutting out of the crack. Pass a roof on the left (really cool and exposed) The pitches are long...bring a 60 m at least. Each pitch is fun with varied challenges and the best part...this route is usually totally unoccupied. (North Buttress bad rap I guess).

Protection

plenty of small sizes (nuts) and a few medium pieces.

Photos

pigsflyinsd
San Diego, CA
 
pigsflyinsd   San Diego, CA
 
There was a baby rattle snake that started rattling when I stuck a cam into one of the cracks about halfway up. I know there are snakes on Tahquitz but shocked they're still active when it's getting cooler. Almost shit my pants. Nov 1, 2015
C Miller   CA  
Tradiban  
 
The topo in the Vogel+Gaines book is definitely off for a large portion of this buttress. From the "JTree Ledge" for this route I tried to enter the "alcove" as described in the book but it looked totally whack so I continued left past a small tree to bypass a roof with a old nut (with cord) fixed at the base. Pulled the roof (fun and exposed) and wandered a bit left to an obvious exit toward the top. Jul 17, 2014