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Routes in (c) The North Buttress

Hubris T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Lip Up Fatty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lip Up Fatty, Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
North Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stroll Around the Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tank Mechanic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Uneventful, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Harry Daley, Yvon Chouinard, C. Butler, and Dan Doody, October 1959
Page Views: 5,450 total, 38/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the longest route at Tahquitz, starting at the lowest point and finishing on the summit. There is quite a lot of nice climbing along the way. Follow the left of the two shallow ridges that make up the base of the North Buttress, going up crack systems that gradually get more difficult (to about 5.4) as they change into a left-facing corner system. After four or five pitches from the ground, this leads to a series of broken ledges with two large trees. The upper tree has a “J” shape near the bottom, and marks the upper part of the route (you can belay from a large seat formed by the bottom of the J). The next pitch is nearly vertical, and the crux of the climb. It follows a corner - a crack in the back ranges from one to six inches in width. After two small overhangs, you go around a corner to the right and onto easier ground. A few easy pitches lead to the top of the rock.

Protection

Gear to 3 or 4 inches.
I've posted a topo. I've done the route three times, but haven't done the right-hand (standard) version of the final pitches. Any comments or corrections would be welcome. For the final pitches I describe, which are officially part of North Buttress, I would be interested in knowing what others have been doing. I posted some comments under the photo of Agina Sedler, mountainproject.com/photo/1… , describing what I've been doing (same as what she seems to be doing) and how it may differ from what Wilts and Vogel describe -- which may be easier climbing and easier routefinding. Sep 23, 2017
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.5
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.5
I agree with some others on here, both my partner and I felt that the Vogel guide is likely incorrect. It appears that Lip Up Fatty is supposed to take the "j tree" finish, and The Uneventful likely follows the 5.0 gully to the left. The section above said tree is no less than 5.8 imho...with that being said, the route is worth a jaunt, but not a repeat... Jul 4, 2014
Tradiban  
 
Meh, this was pretty straight forward, follow the left side of the gully aiming for the big trees, the gully dissipates, look up and see the left facing dihedral, take it to the big ledge below the bent tree. Avoid the start of the bent tree pitch by going slightly right directly above the tree then back into the dihedral, it's 5.5.
The gully is a fukn minefield of death blocks, tread carefully, only the bent tree pitch is any fun anyway. May 20, 2013
Keny Glasscock
Salt Lake City
 
Keny Glasscock   Salt Lake City
 
This was my first multipitch route. I did it with a guy named Jerry in 1987. It was the most fun I could imagine having. I was hooked on multipitch after that one. Classic. Aug 25, 2012
Bill Odenthal
Whittier,CA
Bill Odenthal   Whittier,CA
All of my guides say that North Buttress and Uneventful cross at the large ledge and Uneventful finishes to the left and not up thru thru the J Tree but that is the finish to North Buttress. Are the guides wrong? Apr 29, 2012
Brian said: I am starting to think that Randy got parts of Lip Up Fatty confused with The Uneventful. The 5.8 pitch corner above the J-Tree may be part of the former route.

Likely correct assessment Brian. The Uneventful ends up in the same corner but heads right at a very inobvious spot. Where exactly? Good question. Oct 25, 2010
J.B.  
It was a cruise until the crux pitch for the most part. It kicked my butt but I held on for dear life and pulled through....I was in denial for awhile that a line with 3 roofs could be 5.5. It was definitely harder than 5.5, but the roofs werent the hardest part, to me it was about 15 up the start of that damned flaring crack, left facing corner, offwidth thing. Oct 18, 2010
Graham S
Riverside, CA
  5.8-
Graham S   Riverside, CA
  5.8-
did this route yesterday with another group. got way off route. on the 3rd pitch we by passed a small roof and went right around the left facing dihedral (ended up being harder than thought as well) to get to the tree just below the 'j' tree. we then traversed left and finished on The North Buttress in the dark. the falcon guide for this area blows. Jul 18, 2010
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.7
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.7
I am starting to think that Randy got parts of Lip Up Fatty confused with The Uneventful. The 5.8 pitch corner above the J-Tree may be part of the former route. Jul 3, 2010
Dan Costello
  5.6
Dan Costello  
  5.6
As advertised in the topo, the vertical section encountered after you pass the J-shaped tree (pitch 5 for us) is indeed the crux. It wouldn't hurt to be very confident in your crack and chimney technique before attempting to lead this pitch.

It may have been because we had some rain that slicked up the crack and the face, and it may have been that the near-vertical dihedral presented me with a type of climbing I'm not familiar with, but I found that section to be more difficult than the crux sections on both Fingertrip and El Whampo. Aug 23, 2009
Did this route(?) yesterday with my climbing buddy Tom who's been climbing for over 30 years. The route topo and description in the current guide book suck as well as various other comments on other websites pertaining to this route. After careful study we still got way off route with some 5.8+ overhangs and some serious liebacking to boot. All in all we had a challenging day but if your expecting 5.5+ you better be on route (wherever that may be) or else you're in for an adventure which ain't all bad! Aug 15, 2009
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.7
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.7
Most of this route is 5.5 or less as advertised. However, there is one move on the crux pitch that is pretty hard. I thought maybe as hard as 5.8, and my two partners agreed. The rest of the crux pitch is maybe 5.6 or 5.7. There was a bail biner on an old angle piton, on that pitch attesting to a party getting caught off guard.

If you are a 5.6 trad leader you can avoid this pitch by going left and avoiding the "chimney" which seemed more of a left facing dihedral to me. The protection is actually excellent on this pitch, so if you're worried about pulling the moves, you can sew it up. Jun 8, 2008