Type: Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches
FA: Harry Daley, Yvon Chouinard, C. Butler, and Dan Doody, October 1959
Page Views: 7,994 total · 43/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

This is the longest route at Tahquitz, starting at the lowest point and finishing on the summit. There is quite a lot of nice climbing along the way. Follow the left of the two shallow ridges that make up the base of the North Buttress, going up crack systems that gradually get more difficult (to about 5.4) as they change into a left-facing corner system. After four or five pitches from the ground, this leads to a series of broken ledges with two large trees. The upper tree has a “J” shape near the bottom, and marks the upper part of the route (you can belay from a large seat formed by the bottom of the J). The next pitch is nearly vertical, and the crux of the climb. It follows a corner - a crack in the back ranges from one to six inches in width. After two small overhangs, you go around a corner to the right and onto easier ground. A few easy pitches lead to the top of the rock.

Protection

Gear to 3 or 4 inches.

Photos