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Routes in (c) The North Buttress
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Hubris T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lip Up Fatty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lip Up Fatty, Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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North Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Stroll Around the Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tank Mechanic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Uneventful, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 900 ft, 7 pitches |
| FA: | Harry Daley, Yvon Chouinard, C. Butler, and Dan Doody, October 1959 |
| Page Views: | 5,826 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is the longest route at Tahquitz, starting at the lowest point and finishing on the summit. There is quite a lot of nice climbing along the way. Follow the left of the two shallow ridges that make up the base of the North Buttress, going up crack systems that gradually get more difficult (to about 5.4) as they change into a left-facing corner system. After four or five pitches from the ground, this leads to a series of broken ledges with two large trees. The upper tree has a J shape near the bottom, and marks the upper part of the route (you can belay from a large seat formed by the bottom of the J). The next pitch is nearly vertical, and the crux of the climb. It follows a corner - a crack in the back ranges from one to six inches in width. After two small overhangs, you go around a corner to the right and onto easier ground. A few easy pitches lead to the top of the rock.
Costa Mesa, CA
If you are a 5.6 trad leader you can avoid this pitch by going left and avoiding the "chimney" which seemed more of a left facing dihedral to me. The protection is actually excellent on this pitch, so if you're worried about pulling the moves, you can sew it up. Jun 8, 2008
It may have been because we had some rain that slicked up the crack and the face, and it may have been that the near-vertical dihedral presented me with a type of climbing I'm not familiar with, but I found that section to be more difficult than the crux sections on both Fingertrip and El Whampo. Aug 23, 2009
Costa Mesa, CA
Riverside, CA
PG, Utah
Likely correct assessment Brian. The Uneventful ends up in the same corner but heads right at a very inobvious spot. Where exactly? Good question. Oct 25, 2010
Whittier, CA
Salt Lake City
The gully is a fukn minefield of death blocks, tread carefully, only the bent tree pitch is any fun anyway. May 20, 2013
San Diego, CA