Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Luke Douglas, Greg Martinez 11-05-06
Page Views: 4,532 total · 32/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Jul 13, 2007 with updates from Doug Getty
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

109 Opinions

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Most people feel that the crux is near the end of the route as one nears the chains after the last bolt. Good steep climbing reminiscent of climbing on the pile in BCC. Well protected, although still a bit dirty. This is the right most (southern most) route on the upper Ambush Wall.


Follow the directions to the lower ambush wall. As you are facing the routes on the lower wall simply take the trail to the left of the lower ambush wall. You will see a short but stout 5.11d on your right as you pass on by the lower ambush wall. The trail is steep but short. Keep heading up the loose scree trail until the climbing becomes visible to hikers right hand side. You will see the steep routes on an orangish-tannish colored wall. Approach time is around five minutes from the BCC road.


Standard rack of quickdraws will suffice. No more than 10 draws needed. I believe that the route is six or seven bolts. Chains are placed a bit more to the right than I expected.


FA Luke Douglas, Greg Martinez 11/05/06 Jul 21, 2007
Michael MacFadden  
This is a great route for some one to start lead on some 5.10 overhung routes. Overhung but bomber hands and feet. Pulling up on the last bolt you can't see the chains over the last bulge, but they are right there only about 4 feet up and to the right of the last bolt. Jun 29, 2008
Ty Meadows
Moab, UT
Ty Meadows   Moab, UT
I thought this was a fun and well bolted route but clipping the chains is very akward! They need to be either raised another foot so your able to pull the roof, or lowered another foot to prevent rope rub. Jun 29, 2009
Park City, Ut.
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
Agreed Ty.. definitely rap off after cleaning the anchor, and save your rope. The chains need to be a few links longer to hang over the edge. A great route, lots of good side pull moves. Jul 19, 2009
Pat Welsh
Pat Welsh   SLC, UT
Good climb accompanied by a healthy pump. Hardest move was definitely getting in a good position to clip the anchors, luckily I am 6'4''. Located on upper wall up steep and short trail. Jul 28, 2009
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
As others have mentioned, bring long runners for the anchors - if you don't it's possible to cross load your anchor 'biners over the edge, or rub your rope raw while on TR. Fun route! Poor anchor placement. 6 bolts to the anchors. Jul 9, 2012
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
Very comfortably bolted, close enough to Z clip bolts. I would definitely encourage other new leaders to try and fire up this route. I've seen a number of people take just below the chains, because they're not immediately visible from the last bolt, but you should commit and keep climbing for the red point. It is only one or two more secure moves to chains and the route is so well protected you have nothing to loose––the first time I climbed it I came up left of the chains, and it was an easy single move right to them. I agree that this is a very friendly route if you want to start leading some overhangs. Sep 2, 2013
Garrett C
Garrett C   SL, UT
Crux was clipping the chains. Kind of an awkward climb.. Enjoyed the 5.10 to the left much more. Apr 24, 2014
Laronicus Lehmanold
Salt Lake, UT
Laronicus Lehmanold   Salt Lake, UT
Awkward route the whole way through. Chain placement is a problem. Needs to be moved so you can send the roof. Sep 8, 2015
justa beater
sandy utah
justa beater   sandy utah
Definitely not a 10, more like 9-, maybe a solid 9 depending on how tall you are. Also very overbolted, there are 3 unnecessary bolts, 2 with perfect gear placements right next to them and one on the tip of a horn shaped rock that if if blew if you whipped on it would do some damage. Jun 10, 2016
I discovered the Upper Wall this month. The 2 routes are short but fun. I'd give Boiler Maker a 5.10a and Dead Drunk to the left a 5.10b (mainly because the first big roof is a bit of a tricky move).

Everyone seems to complain about the top chains being in the wrong spot... but if you follow the line directly to the chains (and don't go left-ish after the last bolt), there are a couple of small jugs that make it doable.

One hanger is a spinner right now.

Good jugs and feet make this a fun overhang. Jun 11, 2018
Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
  5.10- R
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
  5.10- R
I totally with Justa Beater’s comment regarding the bolt placed on the tip of a horn which is literally the size and shape of a hot dog bun. I very much doubt it would hold a fall, and you would be lucky not to hit the ground if it did so.
Clipping the chains is the hardest move.
It is a pity that a bit more thought was not given to these issues, because the moves are otherwise fun, and the crag is frequented by many inexperienced climbers. Jun 22, 2018
user id
user id   SMOGden, UT
Benny wrote:Peter Lenz is spot on. The Calderone Bcc book says this is a 5.7 .. I hurt myself and put my party in a tight spot..the flash flood did not help ... glad when I fell it wasn't on that hot dog bun. I should have researched deeper than only the book. Most of my anchor is up there still....if a kind soul gets it back to me...I'd be one happy goomba....thank you. Be careful new leaders... fun moves..not fun anchors if you are expecting the book grade. Not 5.7...oh and that book turns into a dark inked blob with ...a shit load of rain ha!
I think the only thing sad here is your overuse of the ellipses. If you can't look at a steepening route with a significant roof and think? "That looks harder than 5.7" There is another thing wrong with you. Aug 23, 2018
user id
user id   SMOGden, UT
Truth is you don't know me, so you really can't say? Aug 23, 2018
Nate Brown
Salt Lake City, UT
Nate Brown   Salt Lake City, UT
Hot dog bun bolt is a spinner—just makes you trust it even more. Aug 24, 2018