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Routes in Ambush Wall

Boiler Maker S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bong A Long S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chug A Jug S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Drunk S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11d S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown 5.8 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yuengling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Greg Martinez, John Starr 11-08-06
Page Views: 3,513 total, 28/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Jul 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

Most people feel that the crux is between the second and third bolt. After the first three bolts the angle and climbing ease considerably, although, the climbing is still fun after the third bolt. Good, fun route. I felt the route was a bit easier than the rating it has been given. Best of the two routes on the wall. This one starts out very steep and then eases up. It is the leftmost route (northern most route) on the upper ambush wall.

Location

Follow the directions to ambush wall. As you are facing the lower ambush wall walk up and left. You will pass a steep 5.11d on your right as you walk up past the ambush wall. Continue on up the short but steep trail until the upper wall becomes visible on the hikers right. You cant miss the orangish-tan formation of the cliffs.

Protection

Standard rack of quickdraws will suffice. Ends at chains. Well protected climbing.

Photos

Kevin Patterson
Wellington, New Zealand
Kevin Patterson   Wellington, New Zealand
Generally I would rate this climb on a national basis at 5.10c. It is steep, sustained, and the holds while positive are mostly only good to the second knuckle (i.e. Not juggy). Given the local habit of being about 2 grades harder than national (from the massive sample of 5 I've done so far), a 5.10a grade would be consistent for BCC Aug 27, 2017
jawshoeuh
Sandy, UTAH
 
jawshoeuh   Sandy, UTAH
 
Wasn't sure what to expect on difficulty with Tony Calderone giving this route and Boiler Maker 5.7 and 5.8 in his book. After leading both today I wouldn't rate either any easier or harder than 5.9...but who knows Aug 8, 2017
Laronicus Lehmanold
Salt Lake, UT
  5.10a
Laronicus Lehmanold   Salt Lake, UT
  5.10a
Climb the crack on the right of the bolts to 5.9 this climb. If you follow the holds near the bolt line this is a good lead for someone new to 5.10 on lead. One of the bolts was placed in on a rock that looks sketchy- be careful. Sep 8, 2015
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.9+
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.9+
Fun climb on big jugs. Hard to call this a 10+ when there are infinitely harder 10+ climbs in the surrounding crags (the pile, s-curves) Apr 24, 2014
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.8
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.8
Fun, but soft rating. Would be a "Gunks" 5.7. Aug 11, 2012
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9
More enjoyable moves on this route for me than Boiler Maker to the right. There is one bolt placement which seems funky; on a jug type hold that sticks out from the surrounding rock. It just seems like the rock it's placed on could break off given a hard lead fall and it appears there are more secure places to sink this bolt. Fun route, enjoyed it! Jul 9, 2012
This is a very exciting yet slightly short route. The crux is pulling the first roof and the climbing is mellow and fun after that. I agree that it is a little easier than .10+ but still a great climb. Jun 1, 2008
FA Greg Martinez, John Starr 11/08/06 Jul 21, 2007