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Routes in DC Memorial Boulder

All the Way Baby S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Angle of Attack S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Delayed Stress Syndrome S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pro-Vision S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Process of Elimination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psycho Babble S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Showercam, and Your Wife's the Star S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skinny Legs S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spider Needs a Thesaurus (Dinosaurus Clitoris) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vaseline Vision S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 868 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jul 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb the easy flake in the middle of the wall to the slopers above, pull a couple of very hard moves on bad slopers to gain the anchors of this climb.

When I got on this route it was the Summer of 05 and I was visiting my girlfriend (now finacee) in the NRG where she was guiding for the summer. We were finishing up at the Lake and I wanted to get on something challenging but not impossible so I asked where there wa a fun short overhanging 5.11, she said there where some on the DC Memorial Boulder. We headed over and she thought that the one in the center of the face with the very moderate looking flake for a start was an 11. I said OK and proceded to climb my up this climb until about 2/3 hieght I run smack into a seriously hard move off a sloper that to this day I can't move off of. We tried and tried the move off the sloper over and over but we couldn't pull off the sloper at all, truly a humbling experience to have on a climb that I though "wouldn't be that hard". Once I got down to the ground a climber and fellow guide came along named Chad Umbel and told us it was a 5.13 and "not a good one", the stare I gave Nuria was priceless, or so I'm told. I've tried the route since and I still can't do the move, maybe someday...

Location

Middle of wall, starts at right facing easy overhanging corner.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors

Photos

Philip Lutz
Bishop, California
Philip Lutz   Bishop, California