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> New River Gorge…
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> Summersville La…
> DC Memorial Boulder
Pro-Vision
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 2.4 from 8
votes
Routes in DC Memorial Boulder
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Angle of Attack S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Animal Logic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b V6 7A |
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Climb On S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Delayed Stress Syndrome S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La La Land S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Power Outage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Practice Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pro-Vision S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Process of Elimination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Psycho Babble S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Quarrymen's Hands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Route of All Evil, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Skinny Legs S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Spider Needs a Thesaurus (Dinosaurus Clitoris) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vaseline Vision S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,013 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ladd Raine on Jul 11, 2007 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Description
Climb the easy flake in the middle of the wall to the slopers above, pull a couple of very hard moves on bad slopers to gain the anchors of this climb.
When I got on this route it was the Summer of 05 and I was visiting my girlfriend (now finacee) in the NRG where she was guiding for the summer. We were finishing up at the Lake and I wanted to get on something challenging but not impossible so I asked where there wa a fun short overhanging 5.11, she said there where some on the DC Memorial Boulder. We headed over and she thought that the one in the center of the face with the very moderate looking flake for a start was an 11. I said OK and proceded to climb my up this climb until about 2/3 hieght I run smack into a seriously hard move off a sloper that to this day I can't move off of. We tried and tried the move off the sloper over and over but we couldn't pull off the sloper at all, truly a humbling experience to have on a climb that I though "wouldn't be that hard". Once I got down to the ground a climber and fellow guide came along named Chad Umbel and told us it was a 5.13 and "not a good one", the stare I gave Nuria was priceless, or so I'm told. I've tried the route since and I still can't do the move, maybe someday...
When I got on this route it was the Summer of 05 and I was visiting my girlfriend (now finacee) in the NRG where she was guiding for the summer. We were finishing up at the Lake and I wanted to get on something challenging but not impossible so I asked where there wa a fun short overhanging 5.11, she said there where some on the DC Memorial Boulder. We headed over and she thought that the one in the center of the face with the very moderate looking flake for a start was an 11. I said OK and proceded to climb my up this climb until about 2/3 hieght I run smack into a seriously hard move off a sloper that to this day I can't move off of. We tried and tried the move off the sloper over and over but we couldn't pull off the sloper at all, truly a humbling experience to have on a climb that I though "wouldn't be that hard". Once I got down to the ground a climber and fellow guide came along named Chad Umbel and told us it was a 5.13 and "not a good one", the stare I gave Nuria was priceless, or so I'm told. I've tried the route since and I still can't do the move, maybe someday...
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