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Routes in Mystical Mountain Zone

Advice From A Caterpillar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Gate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fractured Fairy Tale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gollum's Stairwell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horner's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack Be Nimble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mother Goose T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Noah's Arc TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ode to a Newt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Number Nine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over the Rainbow T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oz Before The Wizard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sisyphus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swords of Zanzibar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Rick Kollath
Page Views: 283 total, 2/month
Shared By: nodin on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Private property Details

Description

A finger crack in a dihedral leads up to a small roof. Pull this then head right to a crack and an A shaped alcove. Above this are a pair of cedar trees growing out of a crack (be nice to them). Climb the crack to the top. Pretty sustained and great exposure for the region.

Location

Just right of Fractured Fairy Tale.

Protection

Cans and nuts to #3

Photos

I led this back in 1996. It takes great pro and features varied climbing. One of my favorite trad leads in MN. Jun 2, 2014
Ryan Steel
Twin Cities, MN
Ryan Steel   Twin Cities, MN
I just climbed this route this past weekend, and it was a blast! It is a great route with a lot of different moves. I would say it's probably more like a 5.8 than a 5.7+, but that's just my opinion.

Also, even though it says it's trad, it can be top-roped with a 60M rope (no problem with a 70M rope), but you have to start the climb at the first ledge above the ground that's easy to get up to where there are a couple of trees; the belayer can be on the ground, and the rope will JUST barely reach (so be sure to tie a safety knot at the end of the belay line). You have to build the anchor so that it reaches out towards the end of the slope at the top of the cliff, which can be a little unnerving for those who have a slight fear of heights. I would recommend at least 30 feet of sling for some of the anchor points. I also highly recommend putting a sweatshirt or something under the anchor since it's pretty sharp rock---similarly, I recommend taping up your hands and knuckles pretty well for the cracks, or else you'll end up looking like you got attacked by a cat! To get up to the top, you have to go up a path in the gully between the South and West parts of the Mystical Mountain area (about 100 or so feet to the right of this route, if you're facing it). It's a pretty intense hike (class 3), but it has a permanent rope running up it that you can use to get up and down. I rapped down after I set up the anchor, but I walked back down after taking down the anchor, and it's a bit tougher to go down than up that path (just a warning).

All around awesome route with a few fun variations. Definitely looks protectable, but can also definitely be done with TR. Oct 15, 2013