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Routes in Mystical Mountain Zone

Advice From A Caterpillar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Gate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fractured Fairy Tale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gollum's Stairwell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horner's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack Be Nimble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mother Goose T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Noah's Arc TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ode to a Newt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Number Nine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over the Rainbow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oz Before The Wizard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sisyphus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swords of Zanzibar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 930 total · 8/month
Shared By: Burgess Norrgard on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private property Details

Description [Suggest Change]

(from the Falcon Guide) "In the world of the verticle, how can something so horizontal be so troubling? 12' right of the overhang is a thin crack, just left of a large talus block. Up the crack, traverse slightly left, then up to the top"

Beautiful climb! It is a very thin finger crack first going up 40-50ft: First ascends a small left facing corner, then to open face crack, then to a larger right facing corner. The route then traverses to the left following a wide and positive horizontal crack, then continues up the crux a narrow seam/crack up an over a roof topping out another 20 ft up. Falcon Guide rates it 5.10a... but I think in reality it's closer to an 5.11 or upper level 5.10 (pin scar, pinky finger jams). Go out and climb it and decide for yourself!

Location [Suggest Change]

Left of the Cithril Ungol... just left of the the gully up to top of "Jack Be Nimble", etc...

Protection [Suggest Change]

Smaller pro... small nuts, cams no bigger than a #1 camalot (if that), as I recall. BD C3's/ Aliens would be very handy. I believe it would be a challenging lead, but I'm more than certain that it has been done.

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Shane Steele
Grand Marais, MN
  5.10a
Shane Steele   Grand Marais, MN
  5.10a
For the lead, bringing at least one #3 helps for the higher crux. Aug 2, 2017

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