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Routes in Mystical Mountain Zone

Advice From A Caterpillar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Gate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fractured Fairy Tale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gollum's Stairwell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horner's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack Be Nimble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mother Goose T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Noah's Arc TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ode to a Newt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Number Nine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over the Rainbow T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oz Before The Wizard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sisyphus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swords of Zanzibar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Mabley and Rick Kollath
Page Views: 253 total, 5/month
Shared By: Lou Hibbard on Sep 1, 2013
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Private property Details

Description

This route is a good warmup lead. The crux is at the small roof that marks the start of the dihedral.

Location

Just to the left of the main access gully. Look for a crack that starts maybe 10 feet up or so and curves right and then back left. Shortly after that is a small roof followed by a dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Protection is adequate but you have to work for it. Good luck protecting the crux without filling up the best jam. Bring extra slings for the trees at the top.

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