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Routes in Mystical Mountain Zone

Advice From A Caterpillar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Gate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fractured Fairy Tale T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gollum's Stairwell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horner's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack Be Nimble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mother Goose T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Noah's Arc TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ode to a Newt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Number Nine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over the Rainbow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oz Before The Wizard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sisyphus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swords of Zanzibar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rick Kollath
Page Views: 449 total · 3/month
Shared By: nodin on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Access Issue: Private property Details

Description

A tricky climb! Fist crack in a dihedral leads to a wide roof crack. Pull this to mellow climbing above and finish out on a perfect hand crack.

Location

Between Gollums Stairwell and Fractured Fairy Tale.

Protection

Cams to #4.
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
In 1983 I climbed this with a fellow OB instructor from England, on our day off. Dave Pagels guide rated it 5.8+. I led it on hexes. I gave a generous amount of skin and blood to this burly crack. Sep 10, 2010
ShanJ2me
Rapid City, SD
  5.10-
ShanJ2me   Rapid City, SD
  5.10-
Not a fist crack in dihedral, rattling fingers to fingers, fists at the crux. The feet are key , they are there don't get intimidated by the wide! Great great gear all over this thing! A must do!! Jul 27, 2018

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