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Routes in The Galaxy

Dancing in the Moonlight S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Helmet TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darth Vader T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Heat Seaker TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Icarus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jupiter S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lunatic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meteor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Minuteman S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minuteman Variation S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Neptune S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pluto S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raining in Paradise S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Saturn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sidewinder TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Decision S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zeus T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,310 total, 18/month
Shared By: Josiah Reams on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

A very sustained and slightly overhanging route up an arete. Like other routes in this area, the holds look huge from the ground and some of them are. However, once on the climb you will find that many "jugs" are actually medium-sized crimpers.

Location

On the middle of the three formations that collectively make up "The Galaxy" find the noth-western corner and you will see the bolted arete.

Protection

7 bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains on top.
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
IMO this is the best route on Moonlight Ridge. Between a few rest stances, navigate the best path through an assortment of crimps and sidepulls. Jul 21, 2014
No single move on this climb is too hard, but it is move after move for a while. The sustained nature adds much o trying to climb this clean. Advice: Look for rests when you can find them. When you get half way and cross back right of the arete it becomes slightly overhung...no rests here... go fast for two or three bolts to the next rest. Watch for the sting at the end where the decent sized holds disappear. This is a test piece for me every summer. May 21, 2012
Jamin Hubner
Rapid City, SD
 
Jamin Hubner   Rapid City, SD
 
Been climbing for a few months...tried this route and failed miserably, but it was first time, and plan to go back tomorrow.


youtu.be/AJKv29wWJ4s Sep 11, 2011
Classic Needles sport climbing. Tricky right below the chains. Well bolted, solid 10b. Jul 22, 2007
Thanks for your comment Brent. Its always nice to see someone thinks a route is as hard as I think it is. Jul 10, 2007