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Routes in The Galaxy

Dancing in the Moonlight S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Helmet TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darth Vader T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Heat Seaker TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Icarus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jupiter S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lunatic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meteor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Minuteman S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minuteman Variation S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Neptune S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pluto S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raining in Paradise S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Saturn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sidewinder TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Decision S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zeus T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft, Grade V
FA: Erik Phllips-Nania
Page Views: 122 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mark Orsag on May 25, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is a fun, surprisingly tricky, and entertaining little mixed (trad/sport) route. Start off with some physical laybacking of a 5.9 finger crack/flake. Leverage yourself (a bit awkward) onto a smearing stance on a sloping ledge. If you haven't used a stick-clip on bolt one, clip it and hit the crux section-- which involves using some devious sloping crimps to get off the ledge, then pull through a slightly steeper section on more positive crimps and finish with a couple slab moves. Short but varied and sustained.

Location

First Area of Moonlight Ridge next to the trad route Rainbow Brite (5.7), which shares anchors with Raining in Paradise, on the Stumbling Block formation. When facing Darth Vader (5.5)-- this route is straight downhill to your right on the backside (West) of the Stumbling Block formation.

Protection

Small cams to a #1 down low in the crack (nuts would work as well). A long stick clip would alleviate the need for those. 2 bolts total. I think it would be possible to scramble up the uphill (East) side of Stumbling Block and throw a toprope on this route to avoid leading it, but I am not sure.

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