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Lunatic

5.10b, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 28 votes
FA: unknown
S Dakota > Custer SP > Moonlight Ridge > Galaxy

Description

A very sustained and slightly overhanging route up an arete. Like other routes in this area, the holds look huge from the ground and some of them are. However, once on the climb you will find that many "jugs" are actually medium-sized crimpers.

Location

On the middle of the three formations that collectively make up "The Galaxy" find the noth-western corner and you will see the bolted arete.

Protection

7 bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains on top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Last route of the day.
[Hide Photo] Last route of the day.
Lunatic is the bolted arete on the left of the photo.
[Hide Photo] Lunatic is the bolted arete on the left of the photo.
Jon leading the pumpy arete
[Hide Photo] Jon leading the pumpy arete
Gettin' on Lunatic.
[Hide Photo] Gettin' on Lunatic.
Me on the left side of the arete near the top.
[Hide Photo] Me on the left side of the arete near the top.
Milking a rest on Lunatic.  Photo: Dova Tawoda
[Hide Photo] Milking a rest on Lunatic. Photo: Dova Tawoda

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Thanks for your comment Brent. Its always nice to see someone thinks a route is as hard as I think it is. Jul 10, 2007
[Hide Comment] Classic Needles sport climbing. Tricky right below the chains. Well bolted, solid 10b. Jul 22, 2007
Jamin Hubner
Rapid City, SD
 
[Hide Comment] Been climbing for a few months...tried this route and failed miserably, but it was first time, and plan to go back tomorrow.


youtu.be/AJKv29wWJ4s Sep 11, 2011
[Hide Comment] No single move on this climb is too hard, but it is move after move for a while. The sustained nature adds much o trying to climb this clean. Advice: Look for rests when you can find them. When you get half way and cross back right of the arete it becomes slightly overhung...no rests here... go fast for two or three bolts to the next rest. Watch for the sting at the end where the decent sized holds disappear. This is a test piece for me every summer. May 21, 2012
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
[Hide Comment] IMO this is the best route on Moonlight Ridge. Between a few rest stances, navigate the best path through an assortment of crimps and sidepulls. Jul 21, 2014