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Routes in Highlands Wall

Balvenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
But I Don't Drink Scotch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cragganmore S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Double Barrel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If It's Not Scottish, It's Crap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Knockando S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lagavullin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Macallan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On The Rocks S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Springbank S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tumbler S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Matt Ciancio, Aug 2001
Page Views: 203 total · 1/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jul 7, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the short wall (2 bolts), to gain entry to the green right facing corner.

Stem up the corner which is well protected, until a reach out right to bigger holds signals the end of the difficulties.

Continue on up easier ground to the anchors.

Location

Obvious green corner at the right side of the crag.

Protection

2 bolts, gear to 2", Rappel Bolt and chain anchor

Photos

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
 
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
 
Kinda an oddity, since you'll need to bring your trad gear to this sport crag. If you can be bothered to carry the gear the climb is worth it. Jul 8, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.9 PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.9 PG13
Poorly bolted at the start as you traverse far right to an arete (where the holds are) and then cut back left - this could have been done with just one bolt. There's lots of good stemming in the right-facing corner higher, but the gear is a bit scarce for a short section above the ledge. Overall a decent route to warm-up for the more difficult ones nearby. Sep 10, 2007
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Did this climb today - super fun and techy dihedral. I disagree with CMiller (above) in that I thought the initial sequence was bolted well.

I also thought it was way better than the one star everyone heretofore has given it.

The guidebook says "gear to 2 inches" - that's not right by my measure.

The largest piece I used was a .5" - I would suggest doubles on small TCU's, as well as a larger stopper or two.

I would agree with the PG-13 rating off the ledge - if you are taller, a better #0 TCU option lies above my reach from the solid stance. Jul 5, 2016
BAd
  5.9
BAd  
  5.9
Loved this route. Yeah, have yer shiz together getting past the first piece off the ledge. I found a bomber second piece and all the rest were good, too. A really enjoyable route. As MisterE says, I did place a #1 Camalot just off the ledge, but the rest were small cams and a couple of medium wires. You wouldn't have to carry much trad gear to add this to your tick list. Get on it. Jun 25, 2018
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
MrE is pretty much right on -
1. the bottom is bolted well - to me the 5.9 crux was between those two bolts - go straight up, don't bail out to the right (you're missing some fun face moves)
2. pro - mostly small to 1/2" cams, didn't have any nuts but 2 or 3 medium wires would have been great; biggest piece was a .5/.75 offset
3. the only reason i might call this pg-13 is the fact that the first bolt is a bit off the ground (but that section is pretty low key)
it's a really fun route that requires a good head. the pro is there (if you know how to place it) and the moves in the dihedral are not hard (relatively to the moves at the bolted section). the anchor is too high. Jul 21, 2018

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