Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Matt Ciancio, Aug 2001
Page Views: 2,328 total · 17/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jul 7, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the slabby wall on nobs and dike. The technical crux is at 2/3 height. Continue on up the wall until a move left then back right brings you below hanging flake.

The finishing moves up and over the flake are classic.

Location

Located at the right side of the crag just right of the obvious green corner of Balvenie.

Protection

8 bolts, Rappel bolt and chain anchor

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Although the guidebook lists this as having 8 bolts there's only 7. It starts via a long right-slanting ramp or directly (better) although both starts have little to no gear. The climb itself is super fun as you stem, pinch and finesse your way up dikes (crux at 5th bolt) to a great finish up a huge flake (tug gently at the start). Sep 10, 2007
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9+
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9+
sweet line, with a lot of variety, you can even throw in a mantle in if you'd like. i actually thought the physical and technical crux was just after the last bolt: undercling and left foot smear before getting a better foot. all other sections have solid hand and footholds, sometimes bigger, sometimes smaller. Aug 17, 2015