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Routes in Highlands Wall

Balvenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
But I Don't Drink Scotch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cragganmore S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Double Barrel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
If It's Not Scottish, It's Crap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Knockando S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lagavullin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Macallan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On The Rocks S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Springbank S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tumbler S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Lara Wilkinson, Aug 2001
Page Views: 1,594 total, 13/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jun 25, 2007 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Easy climbing gains the first bolt on the lip of an overlap.

Climb directly above this past two more bolts until a steep wall below the overlap is reached.

The moves up the wall to the overhang are really good.

Once the overhang is reached traverse right and then make an airy rock over move, to gain good holds above. Make a couple of moves straight up and then traverse back left, shortly before the anchors.

Location

2nd bolted line from the left.

Protection

10 bolts, Rappel Bolt and Chain anchor

Photos

Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.11a
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
  5.11a
The route feels forced by bolt placement. While I climbed up to the roof, left of the bolt line, then traversed right ~8' and went up, I believe this sequence is forced by bolt placement. After climbing this way, I subsequently discovered it is easier to climb up to the roof on the right, but once you're at the roof, you have to traverse left to clip the bolt, then back right. The bolt placement makes you take a detour and interferes with a direct line. Sep 5, 2017
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
 
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
 
I agree it's a great route because it isn't a straight up. The weakest line goes easily enough at the grade, but the trick is finding it... Oct 11, 2016
nkane
 
nkane  
 
I think this would be a tough onsite for the grade (I hung). The moves aren't terribly hard but the micro-routefinding is baffling. Oct 11, 2016