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Routes in The Nest

Banana Hammock S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Caroline's Last Day S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dozer Days S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kitty Toe S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pla Lek (Little Fish) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strangle Hold S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Techno Bug S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totem S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wacky Weed S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Cecil and party
Page Views: 1,672 total, 13/month
Shared By: richard magill on Jun 18, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Really great line, I loved this route.

Climbs up a steep juggy section followed by a long arete with reachy moves. Great slapping back and forth, with a full-on leg thread to get a really good rest near the top of the first pitch- right in the steep part.

The "extension" pitch is only worth doing if you are going to climb at the "Golden Ball." Otherwise it's a bit contrived with more rope-drag that good/hard climbing.

Location

The second route from the left side of the wall.

Protection

Pitch 1: 9 bolts, 1 thread
Pitch 2: 2 bolts, 1 thread

Photos

Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.11
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.11
Thanks for the comment Ken. I cleaned up the description... at least that's how I remember it. If I'm wrong someone please let me know.

Hopefully this wall will be getting Titanium soon, but it's out of my hands for now. Feb 27, 2011
Ken H
Granite, UT
  5.11b/c
Ken H   Granite, UT
  5.11b/c
The lead is a little scary, the party behind us thought so too. Info here on second pitch is wrong. It is more like 3 threads and 4 bolts. To do it as 1 pitch it would be less than 60 m but the rope drag would be horrible.

From the top of pitch 1 go up then traverse right, pass a bail point with a bunch of threads and bail biners/quick link, go straight up from here to one more thread, this leads to an amazing belay ledge in the Golden Ball. You can access the climbs of the Golden Ball from here for one more pitch of 6a+, 6b+, or 7b.

We rappelled with one 60 meter rope. It requires back clipping to get back to the top of pitch 1. The rappel from the top of pitch 1 was about 28 m. Feb 24, 2011