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Dozer Days
5.11c,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.7 from 42
votes
FA: Tom Cecil and party
International
> Asia
> Thailand
> S - Islands & B…
> Laem Phra Nang…
> Tonsai Bay
> Nest
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning
here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the
Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
Really great line, I loved this route.
Climbs up a steep juggy section followed by a long arete with reachy moves. Great slapping back and forth, with a full-on leg thread to get a really good rest near the top of the first pitch- right in the steep part.
The "extension" pitch is only worth doing if you are going to climb at the "Golden Ball." Otherwise it's a bit contrived with more rope-drag that good/hard climbing.
Location
The second route from the left side of the wall.
Protection
Pitch 1: 9 bolts, 1 thread
Pitch 2: 2 bolts, 1 thread
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Granite, UT
From the top of pitch 1 go up then traverse right, pass a bail point with a bunch of threads and bail biners/quick link, go straight up from here to one more thread, this leads to an amazing belay ledge in the Golden Ball. You can access the climbs of the Golden Ball from here for one more pitch of 6a+, 6b+, or 7b.
We rappelled with one 60 meter rope. It requires back clipping to get back to the top of pitch 1. The rappel from the top of pitch 1 was about 28 m. Feb 24, 2011
London (sort of)
Hopefully this wall will be getting Titanium soon, but it's out of my hands for now. Feb 27, 2011