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Routes in Cliff Lake

All Guts, No Glory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butter Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chilly Dogs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Critter Conundrum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Glory S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gobslutch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lake Effect T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Matt's Meat Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mosquito Mayhem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Woman, No Cry S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pixel T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Squanto S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom's Tunacan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vulgaria S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vulgarian, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Brian Cabe and Brian Smoot 6/27/2002
Page Views: 3,417 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Jun 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A.K.A. A Pox in Vulgaria - A fantastic route for the grade, just not very long. Well protected, good rock, and some good overhanging moves that require pulling on jugs with minimal feet. Provides a nice pump for the portly. Some of the stances were a little reachy, but were very logically placed. The Smith & Tusting guide specifies that there are 8 bolts, so I may have skipped one, but it still wasn't run out. A great view rewards those reaching the top. Vulgaria can easily be top-roped from an approach trail on the east side of the cliff.

Location

Third route from the east end of the cliff (first bolted route). Climbs the left side of an arete. Walk off to the east or rappel from the anchors.

Protection

7 camouflauged bolts to a two bolt anchor (with a rappel ring and a quicklink).
JoshuaP Parkinson
San Francisco, CA
  5.8
JoshuaP Parkinson   San Francisco, CA
  5.8
Thrilling, solid route... awesome intro to a majestic wall in a pristine area Jun 19, 2010
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
 
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
 
This route can also be led on gear straight up the bolt line if you’re a trad climber looking for more routes to do. Better as a gear lead IMO. The bottom protects well with small cams right near the bolts. The gear is all there.

Edit to add: the top can be led out on the arete with some weird placements or the standard crack finish. Aug 26, 2018

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