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Routes in Southwest Alcove

Ballet of the Bulge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Britney's Spear S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
County Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inyerbuttkwa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
She's A Daisy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bryan Beavers
Page Views: 5,735 total · 42/month
Shared By: Spencer Anderson on Jun 3, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The start is the most difficult part of this line. After getting over the initial shelf, cruse up on steeper rock with huge holds in all the right places. Fun movement and great holds. This line is a good warm up (if a bit too easy for some) and good for the beginning leader.

Location

This alcove is around to the right and faces the opposite direction as the main face. To get there hike as you would to the main face but continue up the scree and talus field instead of taking the trail right. Pass the very steep wall with 4 routs on it, then take a sharp left into the alcove. Can’t miss it. This route is the first of three going left to right.

Protection

[7] bolts and chain anchors. Helmet isn't a bad idea, the rock is still cleaning up.

Photos

Royce Simpson
  5.8+
Royce Simpson  
  5.8+
A very nice 5.8. The start is a little devious as you hump over the initial bulge. The bulk of the climb features great edges and ledges. The finish is a little dicey if you take the slabby arete to the left or you can stem the opposite wall for a easier finish.

This is the first line from left to right in the Alcove. Jul 13, 2008
smallakin
Fort Collins, CO
smallakin   Fort Collins, CO
As a beginning leader, I would say that the comment about this being good for a beginning leader is inaccurate. The path to take at the start is not obvious and the finish is a tricky clip. Moves in the middle were definitely fun though. Jul 19, 2009
Jon Lachelt
Fort Collins, CO
 
Jon Lachelt   Fort Collins, CO
 
The NCCC Poudre Canyon Route Climbing Guide has a misleading picture on page 57. This route (#23) is actually on the arete to the left of where it is labeled in the photo. #24 runs roughly where #23 is pictured. Sep 27, 2010
Jess Rumburg
Fort Collins
Jess Rumburg   Fort Collins
Just climbed this yesterday as my very first lead. Lots of bolts and plenty of good holds. Some loose rock, so look out. The hardest part was between the last bolt and the anchor. Great route though. May 30, 2011
Nick Broeder
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.8-
Nick Broeder   Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.8-
This route is not the same if you don't start it from the very bottom and come up the first little bulge, and the top is fun. Great warm-up for the routes to the right. Nov 2, 2011
Tim Kessel
Fort Collins
  5.8
Tim Kessel   Fort Collins
  5.8
One of the better 5.8's I've done, flakes, jugs, real cool. May 2, 2017
Bailey Hoover
Fort Collins, CO
Bailey Hoover   Fort Collins, CO
Honestly not a fan. Easy but essentially the same move over and over (right face hold, reach up to giant flake on left, repeat). Good for beginners looking to get out but definitely not a classic. Worth a trip if you need a warm-up and are in the area. If 5.8 is what you are leading at, there are far better options pretty much anywhere. May 6, 2018
FA was Bryan Beavers. Jun 22, 2018

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