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Routes in Southwest Alcove

Ballet of the Bulge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Britney's Spear S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
County Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inyerbuttkwa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
She's A Daisy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,694 total, 21/month
Shared By: Spencer Anderson on Jun 3, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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70 Opinions

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Description

Start off on the broken, overhanging section in the middle of the alcove face. Then transition to face climbing with large and small crimps. Almost all of the holds are good until the last move. This difficult crux slabby move is devious and insecure.

Location

This alcove is around to the right and faces the opposite direction as the main face. To get there, hike as you would to the main face but continue up the scree and talus field instead of taking the trail right. Pass the very steep wall with 4 routes on it, right after take a sharp left in the alcove. Can’t miss it. This route is the second to the right (going left to right).

Protection

5 or 6 bolts and anchor chains. Shares anchors with route to the right. Helmet isn't a bad idea.
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.10c
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.10c
Such a good route, great rock and fun climbing. Fell couple times at the very top before figuring it out. May 2, 2017
Mitchell Hodge
Lyons / Fort Collins CO
 
Mitchell Hodge   Lyons / Fort Collins CO
 
The clipping jug for the first bolt is primed to rip off. A huge heads up when climbing this route as you have to weight the hold pretty heavily with both hands and feet. It's a judgment call for sure, but this hold's probably not sticking around much longer. Apr 6, 2015
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10+
Curt Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10+
I've done it twice now. The beginning, through the first bolt, is hard and bouldery - stick clip for sure. The second clip is exciting. The rest of it is just plain good stuff with a complete change of pace at the top crux. Sep 1, 2013
Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
 
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
 
This route was extremely fun to me - it had a little bit of everything. I would definitely suggest stick-clipping the first bolt! The start is an cruxy, overhanging section that leads into solid medium to small crimps on a vertical face. The final slopey arete move is probably the least "secure" but also the most interesting move on the route. I highly suggest it. Apr 28, 2012
NoRoCo Marsh  
 
@ SASSO...I think I have your quickdraw. Send me an email to Kmarsh26@gmail.com if you want it. Aug 12, 2011
sasso
loveland
sasso   loveland
Stick clip is recomended for sure. Tough bouldery start, I only made it to the second bolt with some strangers. Had to bail and left a Freewire draw, so props to the person that claims it. Jul 12, 2011
Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
 
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
 
Really should have a stick clip for the start of this one. Sep 14, 2010
Royce Simpson
  5.10c
Royce Simpson  
  5.10c
This, the second line from left to right in the Alcove, is very entertaining. The start is a little nervy overhang. Then you get onto a sweet face with solid edges and a couple mono pockets before being confronted with the slabby arete crux. Jul 13, 2008
Dylan Kuhn
Reno, NV
 
Dylan Kuhn   Reno, NV
 
I think the start is the hard part of this route. I like the way the edges appear as you go. The top move looks intimidating, but felt solid when I finally made myself do it. Jul 2, 2007