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Routes in Southwest Alcove

Ballet of the Bulge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Britney's Spear S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
County Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inyerbuttkwa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
She's A Daisy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Lance Schultz, Bryan Beavers, '04
Page Views: 1,776 total, 17/month
Shared By: beavs on May 14, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is a bit adventurous and somewhat chossy, especially if one gets off route - just be careful, wear a helmet, etc. The 2 hardest sections are where the route is steepest in the middle and at the end.

Location

Continue up the loose scree slope after passing the alcove routes (County Line, Inyerbuttkwa, etc.). Just before you reach the top of the saddle spot the line of bolts going up the west facing buttress on your left. Lowering off/rapping with one rope requires a 60m, and watch the ends!

Protection

I can't remember for sure, but I think around 12 bolts - take a couple extra draws just in case. 2 bolts w/rings at the top.

Photos

John Byrnes
Fort Collins, CO
 
John Byrnes   Fort Collins, CO  
 
This route has got to be the worst route at Crystal. I'd estimate that half the holds on the route are hollow (when you tap them) or loose.

The anchor is invisible on the right side of the arete, and even when you know where it is, it's hard to reach due to the big white "X" on the key hold. Doh.

The anchor is wack, just one quick-link on each bolt and an edge that gets weighted if you lower. Be prepared to rappel or be spending the next week getting the twists out of your rope.

Not worth the trouble. Jul 13, 2017
AJ-Johnson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
AJ-Johnson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
The approach is steep and loose much like the rest of the Southwest Alcove. Rope management is interesting over the first roof, expect some drag. Definitely chossy, but good feet most of the way up, just be careful as you find your hands. Wear a helmet, belayer might want one too. I'm 95% sure it's 11 bolts to a two bolt anchor. This will take ALL of your 60m rope, so a 70m isn't a bad idea if you're paranoid (like me). Killer views of the Palace and the Poudre from the top. Jul 5, 2016