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Bad Fun TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicago Nipple Slump TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinch a Smelly Scrutinizer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Mike Law, 1983
Page Views: 46 total, 0/month
Shared By: Blitzo on May 7, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Bad fun climbs the center of the rock, over a roof and up a crack.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
I remember when this route went up (oops...I mean down) and here is some more info:

Besides the top down deal which was reason enough to chop a JT route in 1983, Law installed "Aussie" style bolts that would only take RP hangers. I think they called them "carrots" or some such back then. We call them crappy machine bolts. I'm pretty darn sure the route was a TR before it was bolted. That and the whole Aussie cross-dressing routine by the crew back then was a "3 strikes, yer out" scenario. The route never had a chance.....

And Blitzo... WTF is a "standard rack" for a chopped top rope?????? Jan 5, 2009
C Miller   CA  
Who knows why?

Randy, the reason the bolts were chopped on this route was because Mike Law bolted it on rappel - that and the fact he wasn't a local.

The same thing happened on Halfway to Paradise, Out to Lunge and Two Scoops Please except Herb was a local of sorts. Surely you've not forgotten how insular the scene was back then and how many bolts got chopped because they didn't find approval with the locals? A reading of the 1986 guide's introduction will help to bring back the mindset of that era - "Remember, when in doubt, run it out". Jan 5, 2009
Randy  
This was once a lead route, but the protection bolts were chopped many years ago (who knows why). Anyway it is a TR. Jan 5, 2009
FA Mike Law, 1983. This used to have bolts, but probably because they were installed via the nasty rap, they were chopped (with the holes left unpatched). May 7, 2007