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Bad Fun TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicago Nipple Slump TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinch a Smelly Scrutinizer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Borne
Page Views: 43 total, 0/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start on a large flake directly below the first bolt with long moves. Continue through positive edges to the "diving board", and pass either through bad rock to the left, or do a thrilling hand traverse/mantle to the right. Passing the third bolt is the crux, and we continued left through the roof to a slightly grainy, but positive crack. Barlett describes the route moving right through another crack, but it doesn't look appealing.

Descend via a chimmeny n' crawl to the rear, towards Patagonia Pile.

The rock through the bolts is an uncommon smooth white stone, which feels almost like sandstone. The steep postive edges and cool diving board feature add to the allure. Given that it has no stars in either guidebook makes it seem like finding a hidden treasure. Plus the name is in a class all its own.

Thanks to whoever replaced the hangers!

Protection

3 bolts, light rack from green alien up. Bartlett notes the bolts have no hangers but they have been replaced, and now have hangers.
The moves through the first two bolts to are definitely easier for tall people. Crux at the 3rd bolt. Really neat climb. I felt it was comparable in physicality to something like Child's Play (on the Thin Wall). Feels about 5.10d. Apr 11, 2011
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c/d
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10c/d
Very smooth and believe it or not, soft feeling rock. Unusual for Josh May 3, 2006