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Routes in Mt. Moroni

Crack in the Cosmic Egg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+
Plan B T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Varco Route T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Voice from the Dust T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: FA - Joe French, Eric Draper, Bryan Bird (11/98), FFA - Jeff Hollenbaugh, Cameron Tague
Page Views: 3,401 total, 26/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Apr 20, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Plan B ascends a right-facing corner system through three distinct roofs. The rock is generally good quality and the climbing is quite enjoyable. A challenging route with some incredible positions. The route now goes free, but was originally done at 5.11 C2.

P1 (5.6) Climb the detached pillar/flake via squeeze chimney. Belay off gear.

P2 (5.11a) Climb the splitter finger and tight-hand crack in the face right of the corner to a tree.

P3 (5.11) Continue up the crack through a wide slot to a small stance. Belay off gear.

P4 (5.9-5.10) Make a crack switch and continue up past a pillar via double cracks to bolted belay.

P5 (5.12b) Follow low-angle corner up to below the first large horizontal roof. Climb the tight-hand crack through the roof to a bolted belay above.

P6 (5.12a) Continue up the corner to below a second smaller roof. Climb out this roof to a bolted belay above.

P7 (5.10) Climb the crack in the corner to a third small roof. Move right under the roof and follow the wild hand crack to belay.

P8 (5.9) Continue up the hand crack to the top and belay off 3-3.5" gear.

Protection


  • (1) set of stoppers
  • (1) set of TCUs
  • (2) sets of Camalots #.5 - #4
  • Extra #1's
  • (1) #5 Camalot

Location

Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10 minutes, start looking for a faint climber's path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall. Plan B will be to the left once the wall is reached.

Descent

From the top, downclimb 30 feet to the bolted anchor. From these bolts, rap the route.
Such a good clean aid climb. Oct 16, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12
Route can be rapped with an 80 with no shenanigans. Really good! Oct 16, 2017
Travis McClinchey
Squamish, BC
  5.12
Travis McClinchey   Squamish, BC
  5.12
Awesome line!

Some comments:

It is not obvious where to turn off the main trail if approaching from Zion lodge. Using intuition and the path of least resistance will see you to the base.

There is no need for BD #4's. The second last pitch eats BD #3's. We had two for this pitch, but you could easily place three or four if this size is hard for you.

One BD #5 is useful for pitch two. After this pitch, stash it and retrieve it after rappel.

No nuts nor small gear needed. I'd bring BD #0.4 and up. Four or five BD #1's are useful for the crux pitch.

The anchors for the end of the climb and before the crux roof could use some love (I.e. Slings). We made an anchor for the top from the lonely bolts, but it was a quick fix and could be improved with tat.

You can rappel with a 70m rope but the second last rappel is more like 40 metres. The down climbing is fairly easy, but be careful.

The topo shows the route continuing up an extra 10 metres or so from the final bolted anchor. The climbing is mediocre at this point and you need to build an anchor. If you do this, you can scramble down around to the climbers left and return to the bolted anchor. Nov 4, 2015
Its hard to believe that this route is more popular. Id say that the true first pitch is more like 11+. off fingers climbing. right off the belay.The roof pitch is quite hard. Red camalots out a roof...tougher for big hands.. the 2ns to last pitch is great but not 12-...have fun Oct 21, 2011