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Routes in Mt. Moroni

Crack in the Cosmic Egg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+
Plan B T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Varco Route T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Voice from the Dust T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: Brian Smoot, Les Ellison (4/84)
Page Views: 5,264 total, 40/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Apr 8, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


P1 (C2+ or 5.11 R) Climb right-facing corner to a ledge with bolted anchor.

P2 (C2) Follow the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to a bolted belay anchor.

P3 (C2) Continue up the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P4 (C1) Move back into the crack, which is now 1/2 - 3/4 inch, and climb to bolted anchor.

P5 (C2+) Move up from the anchor, then do a short pendulum to the right to gain a right-facing corner. Climb this to a sloping belay/bivy ledge.

P6 (C1 or 5.11a) Climb the 1.5 to 2 inch crack that ends with a section of offwidth/chimney.

P7 (5.9) Handcrack to chimney.

P8 (C1) "The Wormhole". Climb through the side slot passing apast a block on the left the wide chimney. #2 Camalot for belay.

P9 (5.9) Climb the handcrack in left-facing corner.

P10 (5.8, C2) Continue up crack (5.8) then right (C2) to top anchor.




(2) sets small offsets nuts, (1) set nuts, (3) Black Alien - #3 Camalot, (1) #4 & #5(new) Camalot, hooks


Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni in the center of the tallest, most prominent buttress. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10-15 minutes, start looking for a faint path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall.


Rap route or descend the back side of Mt. Moroni via a 75' rappel. Downclimb to a canyon, hike up canyon (north) to a pass, descend to Lady Mtn. Trail
We didn't use any big hooks, but maybe someone else found them useful. The midway ledge is too sloping to lay down on. I used a hammock but it was a long night! The top may require a little hunting around, but you should be able to find something. Nov 9, 2015
This may be a dumb question, but the Supertopo Guidebook topo lists 2 grapling hooks and then puts (big hooks) in parentheses. My mentor told me grapling hooks are the big ones, used for hooking large flakes....when I look this up all I find are Pika hooks...are these one in the same? The only grapling hooks I can find are the BD grapling hooks, which are small. Which hooks do you need? Oct 27, 2015
The ledge at the top of pitch 5 is described as "sloping"....just how sloping is this ledge? Does anyone know how many people it can sleep? Is there a ledge big enough to bivy on on the top? Oct 23, 2015
The block which was sitting on the ledge at the belay of pitch three is no more - we sent him down two days ago. May 6, 2013
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
Rappel/anchor bolts are bomber up through the top of pitch six on the Original Variation. Top of pitch seven is one drilled angle and one star drive with Leeper hanger. The protection bolts were all bomber star drives with Leeper hangers. Mar 21, 2013
Lander, WY
peicker   Lander, WY
A heads up to all who climb this route: There is a pretty sizable (3.5ft x 1ft x 3in) oblong boulder sitting on the ledge on top of pitch three. I almost dislodged it. It would be really bad to send that thing down on those below you. Also, we pulled a rock off about the size of a coffee can today while rappelling the route.

The route itself was great! Only got through pitch 7 on the original route due to weather concerns, but overall the climbing was sustained and a lot of fun. Mar 19, 2013
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Fantastic Route! For the last "technical"pitch: Take a black diamond grappling hook along with a black diamond talon. If you are less than 6' the fixed pin is waaayyy out there. Also, I pulled a fixed pin out 15 feet from the top and had to use a loweball to pass this section. It would have sucked without that ball nut. Most anchors have new bolts, however bringing a handrill, some 1/2 rawls, and the skill to put them in would be a great thing to do to any of the belay or rappel anchors that need a little t.l.c. A classic Wasatch Route!

-tda Oct 22, 2012
EB   Winona
Great route. The first four pitches are the goods, while the upper pitches are just ok. The mac/ ammon variation to the wormhole looks better although there are some loose blocks on the following pitch. Also be ready for some biz on the last pitch, bring a hook! Pitch five is plush bivy as well. An obscure Zion classic. Mar 12, 2009
Brian Sadowsky
salt lake city
Brian Sadowsky   salt lake city
I agree with C2+ for this route. Leave the hammer in the car. Great rock except for a couple of sections. Nov 11, 2008
Here's a couple of links to McNamara's topos. It goes clean.…… Aug 31, 2008