Type: Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: Brian Smoot, Les Ellison (4/84)
Page Views: 6,023 total · 40/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Apr 8, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1 (C2+ or 5.11 R) Climb right-facing corner to a ledge with bolted anchor.

P2 (C2) Follow the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to a bolted belay anchor.

P3 (C2) Continue up the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P4 (C1) Move back into the crack, which is now 1/2 - 3/4 inch, and climb to bolted anchor.

P5 (C2+) Move up from the anchor, then do a short pendulum to the right to gain a right-facing corner. Climb this to a sloping belay/bivy ledge.

P6 (C1 or 5.11a) Climb the 1.5 to 2 inch crack that ends with a section of offwidth/chimney.

P7 (5.9) Handcrack to chimney.

P8 (C1) "The Wormhole". Climb through the side slot passing apast a block on the left the wide chimney. #2 Camalot for belay.

P9 (5.9) Climb the handcrack in left-facing corner.

P10 (5.8, C2) Continue up crack (5.8) then right (C2) to top anchor.

TOPO 1

TOPO 2

Protection

(2) sets small offsets nuts, (1) set nuts, (3) Black Alien - #3 Camalot, (1) #4 & #5(new) Camalot, hooks

Location

Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni in the center of the tallest, most prominent buttress. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10-15 minutes, start looking for a faint path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall.

Descent

Rap route or descend the back side of Mt. Moroni via a 75' rappel. Downclimb to a canyon, hike up canyon (north) to a pass, descend to Lady Mtn. Trail

Photos