Crack in the Cosmic Egg (Free)

Zion keeps delivering. The Cosmic Egg is a striking line with wonderful, modern free climbing. It was freed by aid-soloing the first five pitches, fixing lines, and inspecting the free climbing on top rope before leading each pitch. I would recommend this only for pitches two and three, but it would be more bitchin' to do it ground up. The route awaits a continuous free ascent and is worthy of the effort! If you do, please contact me and I'll mail you a Drew Marshall original riddle which will lead you to your prize. 

The wall goes into the shade at about 1 or 2 in the fall. 

Pitch 1:

Do some unprotected face climbing (5.9) up to the right facing corner. Splitter! 5.10+

Pitch 2: Choose your own adventure! 

i.) "The Nip Slip Traverse" (Drew Marshall). This pitch changed the way that I look at Zion's walls and has opened my eyes to what can be free climbed. Follow the original aid line's bolt ladder right off the ledge to the seam (crux). Climb up the seam. 5.12+ slab.

ii.) "The Moqui Queen" (Nat Bailey). Move the belay to two bolts on the left side of the ledge. Boulder up the incipient seam, clipping three bolts. Pop-up, place a bomber nut (if the fixed one is gone) and traverse right to the seam, clipping a bolt along the way. Climb the seam with finnicky pro and red-hot exposure. (5.13b, but not slab). 

Pitch 3: 

"The Intergalactic Hitman" (Drew Marshall). Mega-pitch. Overhanging Zion magic. Climb through the overhanging seam on rock that is better than it looks. Face holds (and letting go of stubborn tendencies) help you on your quest. Climb up easier terrain to the star-drive. Traverse left to the anchor and a ledge. Dream pitch. 5.13a R.

Pitch 4:

"Sweet Duncan". Named after an awesome aid climber. Sweet Duncan! This pitch is unbelievable, as good as any of the 12-'s on Moonlight (yeah bitch, I said it!). Climb the steep splitter through all the sizes. Air at your feet. Wind in your hair. Does life get any better? I almost punted off this thing while the Dirty Dancing Soundtrack was playing in my pocket. 5.12b as in BITCHIN! 

Pitch 5:

"Moroni Take The Wheel". Step right off the anchor, clip a new looking bolt, and quest right heading for the golden plates... I mean the left facing corner. Remember that you are in fact still in Zion Canyon as you grovel up the corner. Boom, you're at the bivy ledge! Bring a single rack. 5.11c.

Pitch 6, 7, 8:

As for the McNeely-McNamara variation of the Cosmic Egg. These pitches are really dope. 5.10-, 5.9, 5.8.

Leave your bag at the top of pitch 8.

Pitch 9 & 10:

"The Guide's Intuition". Listen to your voice at the anchor. No, you don't want to go up and right, following the aid line. Your guide's intuition is telling you to go left, toward that arete full of jugs. Listen to it! Climb left of the arete, up a short crack, around a bush, and up a slabby corner to a ledge on the right. Save a 2 and a 3 for the belay. 

Quest generally upward. Belay in the corner on the massive sandy ledge just before the summit using a 0.5, a #1, and a nut (I think). 

Climb a sweet V0 to the summit and soak up the moment. What a special place. 

To descend:

Reverse the boulder and down-scramble skiers left, and then back right. generally aiming for where you think the original aid line tops out (listen to your guide's intuition). This should be pretty casual, but would be red-hot in the dark. Find the anchor that marks the top of the aid route and rappel the line with two ropes.

Be mindful of rockfall when pulling your ropes on the first few rappels.

I sincerely hope that people seek out and enjoy this free climb. It brought me a lot of joy. I'll never forget smoking Marlboro's alone below the crux, laughing with friends, and how rugged Drew's moustache was in that moment in time. I love this canyon.

Zion Lodge. Cross the bridge on the Emerald Pools trail and go left on the horse trail. Hike toward the face once it is visible, with a small drainage to your right. Pick up a well-cairned trail to the base.

Doubles from 0.1-#3. Triple 0.4. Quad 0.3. (pitch 3 only) Full set of RPs and offset nuts. Offset cams could be handy. 2 ropes.