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Routes in Mt. Moroni

Crack in the Cosmic Egg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+
Plan B T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Varco Route T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Voice from the Dust T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: John Varco P2: Brody and Bird
Page Views: 1,120 total, 10/month
Shared By: Gaar on Apr 15, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

One of the best splitters in the main canyon!!!


P1: Climb Nice hand crack to a 5 foot tight hands roof, then pull over roof on .75's and clip the first anchor. 60ft 5.11b/c

P2: Climb tight hands/thumb stacks for 80ft. 5.10b

Rap whole route with a full 70m or two raps with a sixty.

I linked the 2 pitches for what was possibly the 3rd ascent, and possibly the first linkup at 5.11+

Location

Just around the butress (to the left)from Voices--
Same approach as Voices

Protection

Single set Orange TCU - Blue Camlot
...Triples/quads #.75 and #1 Camolots

Photos

Ben Ricketts
Salt Lake City, UT
Ben Ricketts   Salt Lake City, UT
This is labeled as the Varco Route in the Super Topo guide book. It is an awesome line that is well worth your time. Nice lead linking both of these together. I thought P1 was a little stiffer and would give it 5.11+. P2 is super fun and interesting the whole way at mid 5.10. May 24, 2010