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Routes in Valerie's Book Area

Black Cleft S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nappin T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pizan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solito S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tarzan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Valerie's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Way Gone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,901 total, 15/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 8, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

Bolted climb to the right of Pizan. Starts in a crack system. Can place a #1 Camalot-sized piece in the crack before first bolt. Continue up very nice face past horizontals to ledge and penultimate bolt. Continue up (clip bolt on right), then left around arete to anchor shared with Pizan.

Location

Walk off or rap climb.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (shared with Pizan)

Photos

Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.9+
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.9+
Using the L-R sort on my partner's MP app showed this route as "the prow." I thought the upper section under the roof was quite contrived... adding rope drag (though only for one more bolt) and falling near the bolt would result in hitting the ledge. I'd suggest skipping the roof and moving onto the face off of the ledge. The face up to the ledge was fun though. Sep 29, 2014
Peter Thomas
Prescott, AZ
Peter Thomas   Prescott, AZ
This is a great climb! first bolt is easer climbing but a little high. You can place a medium size nut to protect the first couple moves. I would give is a 9 rather than 9+ rating.

also, one of the anchor bolts is spinning. Still seems mostly solid, but it appears that someone tried to glue it back in rather than placing a new bolt. Sep 29, 2013