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Routes in Valerie's Book Area

Black Cleft S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nappin T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pizan S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solito S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tarzan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Valerie's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Way Gone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 889 total, 11/month
Shared By: Colten Kollenborn on May 30, 2011 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Protection

5 or so bolts up to a two bolt anchor. Or top roped if accessed from the back ramp.

Description

80' Sport route. Left of Black Cleft

Photos

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arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Indeed. Many bolts, closely and strangely placed, making for an easier line than Black Cleft for sure. But, certainly a fun route with a great overhanging top out. Will try to original on gear next time, slightly to the left I'm guessing. Aug 30, 2016
Kevin Keith
5.10-
Kevin Keith  
5.10-
Hey Greg the original route follows a crack up to the piton and continues up a crack left of the bolted line. The bolted line is much newer and seems easier. The bolts on the new line are poorly placed. Fun line though. Apr 27, 2016
Greg Opland    
Original topo for the Promised Land (done by Rusty Baillie) only shows a line with a piton noted about halfway up. Could have been bolted since then...but yes, Prow is just left of the Black Cleft. From what I saw recently (Apr. 2016), the route still requires some small to med gear in the middle. High first bolt, three bolts, then some pro in small cracks, then two bolts to the finish. Sep 30, 2014
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
Is this the bolted line to the left of Black Cleft? Sep 29, 2014