Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ken Trout 1/93 (5.12d A0). FFA: Mark Rolofson 1/31/93
Page Views: 5,341 total · 37/month
Shared By: non on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

This is the bolted line that starts above The Wisdom Traverse. There are currently (Q1 2007) chain draws hanging from the bolts in the roof section. To start, either run it out to the first, coldshut hanger or place gear for the first few easy moves. Straightforward, moderate climbing gets you to the roof transition where you have to deal with a crack and difficult clip at the first chain draw (first bolt in roof). A large cam can be placed here which is a good idea if you are a lousy crack climber. Now, you get to pull on to the roof, clip the next hanging draw and deal with a difficult boulder problem. This leads to a leftward traverse that is juggy and fun. Clip the last bolt and climb great rock up to the anchors. The moves past the last bolt are not hard but if you blow it, you will be taking a safe but BIG fall!

Protection

Mostly bolted with fixed gear on many bolts and anchors. Optional gear before first bolt and under roof.

Photos

non
  5.13a
non  
  5.13a
I have been told this is 13b. I have no argument with the grade; however, this is not an endurance route. You can break this down to 10 up to the roof, V8 with clips transitioning to the first jugs on the traverse and 11+ from here up and to the anchors. Apr 1, 2007
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
Regardless of the grade, this is a fun and amazing route.... Sep 27, 2008
Davis Benz
Golden
Davis Benz   Golden
I'm going to replace the first draw in the roof with an extended one with a thicker dog bone.... If this draw belongs to you, just shoot me an email at dvsbenz@gmail.com describing it, and I'll be more than happy to return it. Jul 25, 2009
Mark Rolofson
  5.13a/b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.13a/b
Here is the first ascent info: F.A.: Ken Trout in January 1993. (5.12d A0). F.F.A.: Mark Rolofson on January 31,1993.

My friend, Ken bolted this superb, wildly overhung climb & then received a lot of shit from the bouldering elite for putting up a sport climb at THEIR bouldering area. Then he invited me to join him. We worked on it together for 3-4 days before I redpointed it. Ken had already done all the moves, so I owe him much credit.

Before redpointing it, one local had already unscrewed the bolts from their sleeves. Followed by Ken screwing it all back in, before his hangers & bolts were returned to him at Paradise Rock Gym. The local was worried that the bolted line could create an access issue to the area. A fear that has always proved to have no merit. It seemed there was a lot of jealousy involved too. The crags biggest overhang had been bolted & not by one of them! I was ready to kick some asses & break some kneecaps. Trout, being a school teacher, was not as ready to go to jail. I ended using my best diplomatic skills & also made a few threats. The route stayed in thank God. After my first send, I returned to redpoint it 2 more times, & Ken finally redpointed it in April 1993.

I believe it could easily be rated .13a/b. The crux dyno is a unique move like none other. You are flying for a big sloper with feet off, & the only hold you are left with a terrible tiny crimp that would be impossible to statically hang from. It is one truly memorable climb. Jul 2, 2015
Michael Hauck
  5.13b
Michael Hauck  
  5.13b
What an awesome route!!! So psyched to have sent this! I gave it a 13b for the sole fact that it felt harder than Sonic Youth and Buster Brown but easier than Public Enemy. There is an old, manky cam and runners in the crack, may be time to take care of that or something ;-)

youtube.com/watch?v=-gfQ0ht… Aug 19, 2015