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Routes in Morrison Routes

5.7 Rail Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rope Route) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Juggmo T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morrison Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Nautilus Cave Pitch, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Price For Fire, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sharpe's Arete (aka Thirsty) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tongue, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab route TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Crack Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Z is Last, But This is First S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,064 total, 16/month
Shared By: Tim C on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Lead up into the Black and White dihedral. Head up until it kicks you out right. It is easier if you head right with high hand and bad feet (compared to a little lower with good feet and bad hands). Then head back up when the roof ends.

Location

This is at the Black and White Dihedral a few hundred feet north of the Cave Route.

Protection

Trad rack, Long draws to reduce rope drag, less then 3 inch gear.

Photos

David Oyler
  5.7+ PG13
David Oyler  
  5.7+ PG13
Fun route, although TR'ing it meant being pulled to the right for the first half. At the halfway point, there was a bird's nest, although it's deeper into the crack there, so I was able to quickly move past it.

As mentioned, the anchors up top held strong, but because it'd be a hefty whipper (my friend took the whipper when attempting this route), the shear forces would be strong on the rock. Other than setting gear in the cracks (TR) rather than use the anchors, or leading it with trad gear, I'm not sure how to protect it better (stronger and more solid, and/or more centered).

Fun route though! Aug 8, 2016
Furthermore
  5.8
Furthermore  
  5.8
The bolted anchor is on a questionable block (the geologist I climbed with agreed). There is a hairline stress fracture near the base. Personally, I would use a gear anchor over those bolts.

The "Good" gear placements near the top are on some precarious blocks. I sure wouldn't want to take a whipper and have the forces of the cams loosen those blocks. I only say that because I have had a similar failure of the rock while at Morrison. Sep 3, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7+
I had a 4" piece, but the largest I used was a 3" piece. I saw places for a 4" piece, but I don't think it is necessary Nov 13, 2012
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.8+
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.8+
Nice route. Amazing exposure for a 60-footer. Make sure you bring some long runners to manage rope drag. This thing is still exfoliating, and there is a loose square-shaped block at the crux. It's not required to pull through. I'll try to trundle it next time I'm up there.

I think a 4" piece would be helpful, but the largest I brought up was a #3. May 4, 2012