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Routes in Morrison Routes

5.7 Rail Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rope Route) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Juggmo T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morrison Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Nautilus Cave Pitch, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Price For Fire, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sharpe's Arete (aka Thirsty) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tongue, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab route TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Crack Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Z is Last, But This is First S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Chris Perkins and Kristin Knudson, 1/27/2013
Page Views: 1,444 total, 21/month
Shared By: Tim C on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Head straight up the black face of the dihedral. There is a thin section over the second small roof, the crux with crimp pulls.

Location

This is at the black and white dihedral a few hundred feet north of the Cave Route.

Protection

Top rope.

Photos

David Oyler
  5.9 PG13
David Oyler  
  5.9 PG13
I climbed this route with a friend on Saturday (August 6, 2016). The jug still flexes, and the anchor placement was ok. I took all your comments to heart, but went up to set up TR and tested the bolts and anchor rock, and felt ok rapping off the top and top-roping the route a few times.

Other than gear placement (read: set trad gear), I'm not sure how to solidify the anchor, but I do hope it can somehow be secured. It's a great, after-work area. Aug 8, 2016
Jeremy C
Golden, CO
 
Jeremy C   Golden, CO
 
The main jug over the roof (halfway up) flexes really bad still if you weight it and has a visible hairline crack that goes 3/4 of the way through it. Also I agree with others about the anchor placement. The anchors are on the far end of a block that is about the size of a Buick and is cantilevering over an edge. I'm not a geologist or engineer of any sort, but I have rapped off of anchors and felt better about it than when I was rapping off of these ones. The routes that go up there are pretty fun overall though. Just be careful! Jan 2, 2016
Jacob Miller
Lakeood, CO
Jacob Miller   Lakeood, CO
Caution! I really like this spot, but the anchor bolts are placed on the far end of a cantilever-like block with an outwardly-sloped base, held in place by the weight of another loose block. I think these bolts need to be removed or relocated before an accident occurs. Apr 19, 2015
I would stay off this route until the anchor is fixed. I am a structural geologist (study of how rocks bend, break, and deform), and too feel that the block is questionable. Not only that, but the upper bolt is now loose and wiggling. I live up the hill in Idledale and love these routes for my beginner friends. I have no anchor placement experience but would be willing to help pay and/or work to fix it. Jun 11, 2014
Furthermore
  5.10a PG13
Furthermore  
  5.10a PG13
There is a finger pocket on the lower third with a wasp nest in it.

The bolted anchor is on a questionable block (the geologist I climbed with agreed). There is a hairline stress fracture near the base. Personally, I would use a gear anchor over those bolts.

Moreover, I think this route would be best protected by tri-cams. Sep 3, 2013
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a PG13
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a PG13
FYI, the block in still there, it may be stable, it may not. Jan 28, 2013
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a PG13
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a PG13
FFA: Chris Perkins and Kristin Knudson, 1/27/2013.

We dubbed it Frozen Fingers. Jan 27, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+
I did not see an unstable block. Have you removed it? Edges appear on this right when you need them. Nov 13, 2012
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a PG13
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a PG13
There is a large block on this about 3/4 way up that looks fairly unstable. I'll X it the next time I'm there. It's going to need a crowbar and may destabilize the block above if removed. I'd advise against its use. Looking for feedback as to whether folks want this thing gone.

Otherwise, this is a great route with solution pockets, and an unbelievable rail appears, just when you need it. Fun! May 4, 2012