Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rope Route)

There is a large block on this about 3/4 way up that looks fairly unstable. I'll X it the next time I'm there. It's going to need a crowbar and may destabilize the block above if removed. I'd advise against its use. Looking for feedback as to whether folks want this thing gone.

Otherwise, this is a great route with solution pockets, and an unbelievable rail appears, just when you need it. Fun! May 4, 2012

I did not see an unstable block. Have you removed it? Edges appear on this right when you need them. Nov 13, 2012

FFA: Chris Perkins and Kristin Knudson, 1/27/2013.

We dubbed it Frozen Fingers. Jan 27, 2013

FYI, the block in still there, it may be stable, it may not. Jan 28, 2013

There is a finger pocket on the lower third with a wasp nest in it.

The bolted anchor is on a questionable block (the geologist I climbed with agreed). There is a hairline stress fracture near the base. Personally, I would use a gear anchor over those bolts.

Moreover, I think this route would be best protected by tri-cams. Sep 3, 2013

I would stay off this route until the anchor is fixed. I am a structural geologist (study of how rocks bend, break, and deform), and too feel that the block is questionable. Not only that, but the upper bolt is now loose and wiggling. I live up the hill in Idledale and love these routes for my beginner friends. I have no anchor placement experience but would be willing to help pay and/or work to fix it. Jun 11, 2014

Caution! I really like this spot, but the anchor bolts are placed on the far end of a cantilever-like block with an outwardly-sloped base, held in place by the weight of another loose block. I think these bolts need to be removed or relocated before an accident occurs. Apr 19, 2015

The main jug over the roof (halfway up) flexes really bad still if you weight it and has a visible hairline crack that goes 3/4 of the way through it. Also I agree with others about the anchor placement. The anchors are on the far end of a block that is about the size of a Buick and is cantilevering over an edge. I'm not a geologist or engineer of any sort, but I have rapped off of anchors and felt better about it than when I was rapping off of these ones. The routes that go up there are pretty fun overall though. Just be careful! Jan 2, 2016

I climbed this route with a friend on Saturday (August 6, 2016). The jug still flexes, and the anchor placement was ok. I took all your comments to heart, but went up to set up TR and tested the bolts and anchor rock, and felt ok rapping off the top and top-roping the route a few times.

Other than gear placement (read: set trad gear), I'm not sure how to solidify the anchor, but I do hope it can somehow be secured. It's a great, after-work area. Aug 8, 2016