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Routes in American Pie Section

American Pie S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Art of Noise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
French Controversy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Little Mermaid, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rain Maker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Super Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Christian Venetz, 1998
Page Views: 470 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 23, 2007
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Description

3 stars for the reputation and novelty, not for it's outstandingness as a climb itself. Speak aloud of doing it and a crowd may follow you to the base of this climb to watch. I scrounged gear to lead on and that is exactly what happened.
Climb up and right a few body-lengths to reach the beginning of the hard climbing, then start firing protection and clings to pass a few odd flakes and get established high in the crack. At eh very end, veer left to a bolted anchor.

Location

This route is the left-trending cracks and flakes system on the right side of the big corner, facing more southwardly.

Protection

fingers to fat fingers (.75"-1.5") and a few slings. Be mindful of some loose grains on the flakes due to lack of frequent travel.

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