Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Puppy Dome

Battle of the Bulge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbing on Face-book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Do or Fly T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grenade Launcher T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machine World 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Puppy Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Bob Finn
Page Views: 5,270 total, 40/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Mar 2, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


52 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A right leaning crack to a roof.
The crux comes right off the ground, a flaring hand crack with lieback moves to establish yourself in a better section of 5.10 hands, a long sustained series of moves before the crack narrow down to a finger crack and a 5.11a roof. There is a back breaking boulder/flake directly below the start of the route, I recommend you be solid at the grade.

Location

On the far side of the dome left most route on the overhanging face.

Protection

Gear to 2" Anchors

Photos

Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
Yes. That is what internet is for. Don't want beta? Don't read it. Oct 14, 2015
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.11c
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.11c
Excuse me, people? Are you REALLY spraying crux beta on the internet?? Can't we all just go try the climb and figure it out?

Anyway, what an amazing pitch! Definitely give it a go! It was in the sun from mid morning until late afternoon when I was around in October. Oct 14, 2015
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
A killer line with three distinct sections:
  • a boulder problem into an insecure jam crack
  • a juggy but somewhat technical lieback
  • a traverse into and out of a steep roof

For the first section's crux, the beta that worked for me was to get the left toe-jam established as high in the main crack as possible, then plant the right foot on the slopey diagonal rail underneath-right. From this position, establish the best possible left hand/fist jam above, and then throw a right "monkey paw" deadpoint over the very top of the protruding rounded column. This approach seemed to be more efficient than doing the whole section statically.

For the final roof, the key seemed to be getting a right high-step established in the shallow horizonal crack above the somewhat-juggy rail to the right of the roof crack. How one works the hands and feet up high enough to execute this beta though, I am unsure... the feet underneath this are steep and spread out under the roof. Sep 4, 2015
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11c
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11c
Even though this gets a lesser grade than Horseshoes and Hand Grenades, it's a harder, more serious redpoint / onsight. It can be toproped avoiding the bottom bulge, but this would be unprotected on the lead. Sep 23, 2013
-robin-
  5.11b/c
-robin-  
  5.11b/c
The roof can be protected by a #10 nut, slot it in the crack and then pull through the roof, my favorite nut placement ever.. Great route, thanks Falkey! Oct 1, 2012
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
 
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
 
With small gear and a blue C4 (memory is bad in my old age, but I'm 90% sure that its the blue C4; is correct) at the crux, the beginning isn't that bad to protect and the crux is short (I'm 100% sure on that). When I first tried it years ago, I was only getting close to the grade and thought it was reasonable. Jun 29, 2010
peachy spohn  
 
To protect the beginning/crux you can place a #5 metolious or equivalent blindly with the right hand and then move into the lefthand crimp and right hand jam. Sep 4, 2008