Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Bob Finn
Page Views: 5,791 total · 40/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Mar 2, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


A right leaning crack to a roof.
The crux comes right off the ground, a flaring hand crack with lieback moves to establish yourself in a better section of 5.10 hands, a long sustained series of moves before the crack narrow down to a finger crack and a 5.11a roof. There is a back breaking boulder/flake directly below the start of the route, I recommend you be solid at the grade.


On the far side of the dome left most route on the overhanging face.


Gear to 2" Anchors


peachy spohn  
To protect the beginning/crux you can place a #5 metolious or equivalent blindly with the right hand and then move into the lefthand crimp and right hand jam. Sep 4, 2008
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
With small gear and a blue C4 (memory is bad in my old age, but I'm 90% sure that its the blue C4; is correct) at the crux, the beginning isn't that bad to protect and the crux is short (I'm 100% sure on that). When I first tried it years ago, I was only getting close to the grade and thought it was reasonable. Jun 29, 2010
The roof can be protected by a #10 nut, slot it in the crack and then pull through the roof, my favorite nut placement ever.. Great route, thanks Falkey! Oct 1, 2012
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
Even though this gets a lesser grade than Horseshoes and Hand Grenades, it's a harder, more serious redpoint / onsight. It can be toproped avoiding the bottom bulge, but this would be unprotected on the lead. Sep 23, 2013
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
A killer line with three distinct sections:
  • a boulder problem into an insecure jam crack
  • a juggy but somewhat technical lieback
  • a traverse into and out of a steep roof

For the first section's crux, the beta that worked for me was to get the left toe-jam established as high in the main crack as possible, then plant the right foot on the slopey diagonal rail underneath-right. From this position, establish the best possible left hand/fist jam above, and then throw a right "monkey paw" deadpoint over the very top of the protruding rounded column. This approach seemed to be more efficient than doing the whole section statically.

For the final roof, the key seemed to be getting a right high-step established in the shallow horizonal crack above the somewhat-juggy rail to the right of the roof crack. How one works the hands and feet up high enough to execute this beta though, I am unsure... the feet underneath this are steep and spread out under the roof. Sep 4, 2015
Vlad S
Vlad S  
Yes. That is what internet is for. Don't want beta? Don't read it. Oct 14, 2015