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Routes in Puppy Dome

Battle of the Bulge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbing on Face-book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Do or Fly T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grenade Launcher T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machine World 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Puppy Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,979 total, 30/month
Shared By: rl23455 on Aug 31, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Crux is bulge halfway up. One toe jam step up into crack feel for crack on left side of crack way in the back.

Location

far right side of lower terrace

Protection

all gear, all the time. Gear to 3.5" for anchor, but can get away with <1.5"

Photos

Mike Womack
Los Angeles, CA
 
Mike Womack   Los Angeles, CA
 
I used small cams for the start (.5 and .75 BD I believe). With good small cams, this is a very safe climb. Enjoy! Jul 25, 2017
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.8
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.8
This was a fun, somewhat varied climb. The climb has ample opportunities for protection the entire way. I got a bomber blue/yellow offset mastercam in the first 8 feet or so. Although, a regular cam of similar size would have worked fine, this climb simply doesn't warrant the R that Supertopo gives it, not even a PG13.

I actually felt the 5.8 moves were pretty soft for the area, don't hesitate on this one. Sep 1, 2015
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
bomber tricams for the start, and cams as well. route description could do without the "halfway" crux beta instructional spray, which may well differ from what others consider the crux anyway Jul 19, 2015
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.8
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.8
Not R rated like supertopo book suggest. Agree with Vit regarding first 20 ft. protects really well with TCUs. My first piece was a red TCU that was actually hard to get out on the rappel. 2nd piece was an orange TCU then after are finger to hand size placements.

I think a 5.8 leader doesn't need to think twice about this route. Good pin scars for holds and good feet while placing gear down low. Crux is at top pulling pass a bulge. No need to use knees, use that hand and toe jam. Jul 5, 2015
rl23455
Portland, OR
 
rl23455   Portland, OR
 
I had no trouble placing gear first 30 feet. I do remember running out of cams for the route, getting real creative at the end. Mar 30, 2014
Vit
Vit  
I found the first 20 ft actually protect quite well with Metolius TCUs. Agreed that 60m minimum is necessary for TR. Class 3 walk-off towards the left at the top. Jun 27, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8
The start looks spooky from below but my leader managed to get lots of reasonable (though maybe not bomb-proof) cams in. The crux is simple using knees! Sep 12, 2012
hubix  
Quality is excellent. Great hand jams half way up. Stiff crux.
We actually top roped it with a 60m rope. I guess it depends how high you put the gear anchor. Aug 6, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Second that. First 30 feet very thin on gear and hard enough any 5.8 leader should think twice if they have any doubts. Rest of climb is G and quality. Top rope was a little tricky but only 4th class to access the top of the route. 70m a must for TR. Sep 17, 2011
camtron Summers
Huntington Beach, Ca
camtron Summers   Huntington Beach, Ca
no gear for the first 30ft unless you uses some tri-cam. Super fun gets 4 or 5 stars in the supertopo giude. Nov 27, 2010